ultimate gift Exchange, The

Southern Living, Dec 1995 by Carlton, Michael

In a sprawling building on a quiet sidestreet in Memphis, the elves are busy. In his warm-weather, Southern version of Santa's workshop, women wearing red aprons and sunny smiles are filling all kinds of Christmas wishes.

"She's 8 years old and loves Barbie? Look at this three-story dollhouse," says one bright matron.

"He's a serious golfer, you say?" says another. "How about this hand-painted towel for his golf bag?"

If you're still looking for one-of-a-kind Christmas gifts and are tired of thumbing through mail-order catalogs, you just need to visit the Woman's Exchange of Memphis.

There you'll find the nicest toy chest south of the North Pole, the finest children's fashions this side of Paris, and a treasure chest of goodies for children--and grown-ups too.

You can also eat one of the best-tasting (and best-priced) lunches in town. The Woman's Exchange of Memphis has been welcoming browsers and buyers, munchers and lunchers, for 60 years.

Droves of hungry diners stream into the building at lunchtime to enjoy a hot entree, such as beef tenderloin ($8), which comes with a blessedly sweet dessert (hope for apple cobbler or bread pudding), plus iced tea. Many leave after lunch, but the smart ones stay.

They stay to peruse the extraordinary selection of hand-sewn christening gowns ($465), smocked little girls' dresses and little boys' suits ($65-$85), wooden dollhouses ($125), children's rockers ($65), and hand-painted hats ($14.75). More than 800 craftspeople offer their creations through the nonprofit Woman's Exchange, which sells over $500,000 worth of merchandise each year.

The Woman's Exchange of Memphis is part of a nationwide organization that has its roots in the community kitchens established during the Depression. Since then, it has expanded to help the needy sell their crafts for a fair price in a pleasant environment.

There is a large selection of toys, as well as a variety of regional cookbooks, stained-glass night-lights, jewelry, gardening gloves, even tiny bales of Delta cotton. During November and December, a special Christmas Shop draws patrons from throughout the South.

"Mothers and grandmothers from all over come in to order the exquisite infant's and children's clothing made by our workshops and consignors," says one volunteer. "Mothers begin bringing their children to be measured for Easter finery almost before our Christmas decorations are put away. That's all quite amazing when you consider the entire operation is run largely by volunteers."

It is quite amazing--and quite the perfect place for finding a Christmas present too.

Woman's Exchange of Memphis: 88 Racine Street, Memphis, TN 38111; (901) 327-5681. Hours: 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday; lunch 11:30 a.m.-1:45 p.m. Tummy tip: The most popular day for lunch is Thursday, when beef tenderloin is served, along with twice-baked potato, homemade rolls, salad, and cobbler for dessert.