Discover the Olympic south

Southern Living, May 1996

Our Olympic South is a place of heritage and humor, of mystique and meaning, of world-acclaimed sites and tiny surprises. It's those surprises we celebrate in the following pages-all the nifty little offthe-beaten path places that intrigue and incite us to the bursting point of pride. Come along as we share the secrets.

ALABAMA

The Magic City: Birmingham, the state's largest city, has left its steel-making days in the past. Birmingham now boasts other, less heated attractions. Unpack your bags at the elegant Tutwiler Hotel downtown, and dine in its restaurant, Christian's, before heading to the Riverchase Galleria for shopping. Then return downtown for a stroll through the Birmingham Museum of Art, with its Wedgwood collection. Also downtown find the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute, a museum and research center focusing on civil and human rights struggles.

Waterworlds: For 32 miles of blindingly white sand and surf, go to Orange Beach and Gulf Shores. Perdido Beach Resort offers one of the best lodgings. Ask for a corner room in the east tower for sunrise views. Don't pass up its fine restaurant, Voyagers, for its Continental and Creole cuisine. To the west, 13 miles down Fort Morgan Road, is Gulf Shores Plantation, with its secluded beaches. For another quiet beach experience, try Dauphin Island. The 17-mile-long island has one main street and no traffic light. Sunning, fishing, and relaxing await visitors who stay in Sandcastle Condominiums, with a balcony off every room.

Grits to gourmet: In Alabama, grits are a must for breakfast. You'll find good ones at Bogue's on Birmingham's Southside. They also have great vegetable plates for lunch. For some of the best barbecue in the state, head to Dreamland in Tuscaloosa or Birmingham. The menu is simple: ribs dripping in sauce, white bread, potato chips, beer, and soft drinks. One of the finest restaurants in Huntsville is The Green Bottle Grill. Southern dishes prepared with a Continental flair make this shopping center eatery divine. A bakery next door sells take-home desserts and croissants. One of the best restaurants in the state is Highlands Bar and Grill on Birmingham's Southside. The upscale Southern cuisine uses many local ingredients to create a taste all its own.

This old house: Eufaula's Seth Lore and Irwinton Historic District is among the largest in the state. Take a driving tour and visit some of the homes open to the public. Selma offers a wonderful historical neighborhood too, with over 1,250 structures. And Huntsville boasts the Twickenham Historic District, which contains homes built by the early pioneers of the town.

Where our gardens grow: Near Mobile, Bellingrath Gardens provides a wonderful show of color. Azaleas blaze in spring, and no matter the season, there's always a display of blooming plants worthy of a picture postcard. The Botanical Gardens in Birmingham also puts on a great show of shrubs, trees, and flowers. The Japanese Garden is complete with a new teahouse. If you want to visit a garden comfortably even in the heat of summer, try the heavily shaded Jasmine Hill Gardens in Montgomery. Use the map at the gate to guide you through the foliage and sculptures, and be sure to wear good walking shoes.

Walk this way: For stretching your legs and learning something about Alabama's topography, start with Noccalula Falls in Gadsden. Water from Black Creek plunges 90 feet from a limestone ledge into a wooded gorge. Little River Canyon is another spectacular walking spot. To see the entire canyon, follow State 176 and stop at the marked overlooks. For another top-of-themountain experience, drive to Cheaha State Park near Anniston. Clamber up to the state's highest point (2,407 feet) and enjoy the trails. The going can be steep.

FLORIDA

Museums, Florida style: Ever see antique music machines, cars, and arcade games-all in one museum? Catch them in Sarasota at Bellm's Cars & Music of Yesterday. Ever see the surrealistic paintings of Salvador Dali up close, melting clocks and all? Visit the Salvador Dali Museum, which holds the world's largest collection of Dali works, in St. Petersburg. You can experience hurricane-force winds and a domed IMAX Theater at the Museum of Science & Industry in Tampa. Wander among astonishing military machines at the National Museum of Naval Aviation in Pensacola and the U.S. Air Force Armament Museum near Fort Walton Beach. And you can tour the largest one-site collection of Frank Lloyd Wright architecture, 12 structures, at Florida Southern College in Lakeland.

string of pearls: The Florida Keys dangle from the southern tip of the state like a broken necklace. You know about Key West: the raucous charms of Duval Street, the sunset celebrations at Mallory Square, and the lovely little guesthouses. But don't miss the collie-size Key deer on Big Pine Key, the pretty beach at Bahia Honda State Recreation Area, and the astounding beauty of the water, whether viewed from the bridges of the Overseas Highway or the outdoor deck of a restaurant.