A diary of Ozark cookery

Southern Living, Oct 1996 by Gee, Denise

If we should press our ears to the ground we might hear the pulsing of a heart.

Once touched by the sweet sentiment of a quilt maker, or the ancient sound of a dulcimer, a part of you never leaves the auburnand-gold Ozark mountains of northern Arkansas and southern Missouri. "It's a very healing, spiritual place," says one Arkansan. Such feelings also surround the area's foodways. With an abundance of trout, catfish, wild game, fresh herbs, and local vineyards, the good life follows. And so do we.

On a chilly October morning-one of the most picturesque months in the OzarksSenior Foods Photographer Charles Walton and I set out to share in the abundance. We enjoyed everything from down-home works of heart to innovative works of art. Pull up a chair

DAY 1: THE OZARK PLATEAU

For sports fans, Fayetteville is University of Arkansas Razorback country. For businessmen, it's lucrative Wal-Mart country. For gourmands, it's the peak of fine Ozark dining, thanks to native Miles James. Patrons drive from neighboring towns to dine at his architectural and culinary marvel, James At The Mill, in nearby Johnson. This sleek restaurant, with even sleeker entrees, is tucked behind a restored pre1835 mill-turned-hotel, Inn at the Mill. Both were designed by Miles's father-in-law, renowned architect James Lambeth, and are always packed houses.

With his training in international flavor, Miles creates what he calls "Ozark Plateau" cuisine. "I take the close-to-theearth foods of the Ozarks to new heights," he says. (And he truly achieves it with a towering appetizer sporting 10 layers.) Other features include Pan-Seared Bella-Vista Trout with a barbecue glaze ($17) and Faye's Warm Banana Cake ($6), inspired by his wife and grandmother.

Running a gourmet restaurant in the South's meat-and-three belt is challenging but workable. "Some look at our menu and are noticeably intimidated," Miles says. "But they soon realize our food is what they grew up eating-just with a new look. I have a few farmers who come in every Saturday night and all they want is chicken-fried steak. But mine features a lime aioli instead of typical milk gravy. They seem to like the difference." So did we.

James At The Mill, 3906 Greathouse Springs Road, Johnson, AR 72741; (501) 443-1400 or fax (501) 575-295. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, dinner only Saturday, closed Sunday.

DAYS 2 AND 3: GONE FISHIN'

After overindulgence on the plateau, a drive cured our ails. But as hours passed and the roads heading east from Fayetteville to Mountain Home ascended into the heart of the Ozarks, the bumpy black tar began resembling beef jerky. Hunger again. Time to stop. Yellville, Arkansas, looked just right. A gas station attendant let us in on the best place in town-the Front Porch Restaurant, Dave and Laveta Tablish's place. Soon we were on the Front Porch's back porch above Crooked Creek, grazing happily on barbecued chicken ($6.59) and crispy, sweet fried catfish ($7.69). "The secret is we use a cornbread mix for our batter," reveals cook

Sandy Sheilds.

Temporarily sated, we continued on to Gaston's White River Resort in Lakeview, Arkansas, where trout is the guest of honor. The ice-cold White River is full of elusive rainbows and browns that hook hordes of fishermen to the rustic resort. The "reel" fun is eating in Gaston's riverfront restaurant, where every seat in the house offers a view. The menu offers trout everything, most notably, a buttery trout amandine ($15.95).

Front Porch Restaurant, State 62 East, Yellville, AR 72687; (501) 449-5500. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner Gaston's White River Restaurant, #1 River Road, Lakeview, AR 72642; (501) 431-5203. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. DAY 4:

EUREKA! SOMETHING DIFFERENT After catching a prized brown trout (my triumph) and a few throwbacks (Charles's efforts) during a dawn ride on the frosty White River, we warmed up over steamy fried trout and then headed to Eureka Springs. Built atop healing springs that originally attracted the Victorian wealthy, Eureka Springs is now a colony of galleries and quirky restaurants.

We already knew great things about Dairy Hollow House and chef/owner Crescent Dragonwagon, so we met with Linda Hager at the Cottage Inn Restaurant and Lodging. Holding its chin up amongst wedding chapels and budget motels on the outskirts of town, the Cottage Inn is a collection of five onebedroom 1937 cottages surrounding Linda's Mediterranean-style restaurant. There the food-Spanakopita ($4.50) and Italian Mixed Grill ($16)-and wine selections reflect her Greek, French, Spanish, English, and Austrian training. She promotes more flavor than fat and occasionally offers light cooking lessons.

"I encourage people to eat healthier foods rather than choose fried everything," says Linda, who sits with us between kitchen stints. "Many Ozarkians see food only as a fuel, not as a pleasure. I show them otherwise.

"A lot of us here have come from other places," says Linda, a Dallas native who has lived in Eureka Springs for 17 years. "It's such a peaceful, easy place to live. The great food and attitudes here reflect that." Cottage Inn Restaurant and Lodging, State 62 West, Eureka Springs, AR 72632; (501) 253-5282. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday.