Georgia's Back Road Surprises

Southern Living, Jun 1998 by Campbell, Dana Adkins

You expect fare with flair in Atlanta's restaurants. But leave the city behind, head north into the peaceful, Georgia mountains, and you think of country cooking. We've discovered unlikely, tiny-town spots to savor posh flavor and pampering service, without hectic valet parking and high-rise prices.

Wind your way up wooded roads to Marble Hill's Countryside Cafe. This dinner-only restaurant glows, golden and romantic. It's whitetablecloth, but skip the pumps and pearls. The seasonal menu is imaginative, yet balanced, restrained. After crusty bread with rosemary butter, we sampled a tartlet ($5.50) with bits of roasted vegetables and a dab of goat cheese, all perched on spinach leaves. Our main course paired more vegetables, this time grilled and stacked, with gnocchi (Italian dumplings) prettily shaped into short cylinders atop a light pool of herb-truffle olive oil ($14.95). Our only reminder that we were in the sticks was a distant, refined relative to cobbler: port-soaked pears with a crumbly topping, drizzled with velvety milk chocolate. Steve Tate Highway, Marble Hill, (770) 893-3389.

Just off Dahlonega's town square, relax at Renee's Cafe & Wine Bar. Don't assume a house salad is mundane in this cozy, laid-back place. Included in the reasonable entree price, the usual greens and veggies are sprinkled with sunflower seeds and alfalfa sprouts, accompanied by intriguing dressings. Try the enlightening orange-hazelnut vinaigrette. A huge pasta bowl of angel hair in plum tomato sauce with small, tender chunks of lamb and portobello mushrooms, pine nuts, and goat cheese ($15.95) followed. Dessert was basic, but the wine list offered delights by the glass, especially a Bonterra Chardonnay and a Frog's Leap Zinfandel (nice with lamb) . 135 North Chestatee, Dahlonega, (706) 864-6829.

Just outside Helen, the Nacoochee Valley Guest House offers a quaint lunch spot It's open for dinner, but the pastel, garden-cottage look is made for daylight, with big windows bringing sun and shadow across flowers and lace cloths. Both decor and fare are traditional, delicate, but not dated. Lemon-artichoke soup was a generous, brothy bowl of freshness ($3.50), and the seafood crepe ($8.95 with salad) was justright creamy, highlighting shrimp, crab, and scallops. The side salad had no iceberg, just superb baby lettuces lightly bathed in vinaigrette. It was heartwarming to watch the waitress slice a slab of Triple Chocolate Fudge Cake from the sideboard, then take it to the kitchen for a huge dollop of real whipped cream. 2200 State 17, Sautee, (706) 878-3830.

Glen-Ella Springs provides a bonus: a comfortable, designer rustic inn where you can slumber after an indulgent meal. The service here is friendly and helpful. (They advise before you come it's BYOB.)

The flavorful crab cake appetizer ($7) was a giant, the meat stringy instead of gorgeous lumps, but the dill cream sauce beneath was fantastic. The salmon entree was brushed with an orange-basil vinaigrette and perfectly pan-seared, served with sauteed fresh spinach and a wild rice-grain side ($18). The grand finale: Molten Chocolate Cake with a tender outside crust, an oozing center, and custard. Oh, my. 1789 Bear Gap Road, Clarkesville, (706) 754-7295.