When you wish upon a cruise

Southern Living, Nov 1998 by Lingo, Karen

Disney Cruise Line's new ship, Disney Magic, takes a scoop of fun, a dash of fantasy, and tops it with an exotic Caribbean setting.

As Disney Magic gracefully eased away from her berth at Port Canaveral, Florida, the ship's horn blew a throaty salute to well-wishers waving from shore-the first notes of "When You Wish Upon a Star," from Pinocchio.

Then she pointed her elegant prow toward the open sea. Three days stretched before us, filled with possibilities.

Declaring maritime independence, our two teenagers headed to Common Grounds, an area themed like a coffeehouse and just for 13- to 17-year-olds (no adults allowed). One wanted to check out the computer games. The other wanted to see if there were any cute members of the opposite sex. Neither was disappointed.

I was allowed one peek at this teenage haven on the first day of the cruise. Thereafter I was greeted politely at the door and my children summoned by one of the counselors. Out of curiosity, I also looked over the shoulders of parents signing their offspring into the areas for younger kids. For ages 3 to 8 there's Disney's Oceaneer Club, themed like Captain Hook's ship, with plenty of space to play and things to climb on. Another area, Disney's Oceaneer Lab (for ages 9 to 12), features a video wall with giant play pads and computer stations.

But if you're thinking everything on the Disney Magic is oriented to children, think again. In addition to the family pools, there's one just for adults. If you want to dine far from the sound of little voices, make reservations at Palo, an adults-only restaurant with superb northern Italian cuisine. And then there's the spa, off-limits to anyone under age 18.

Harboring dreams of a massage and facial in Vista Spa & Salon, I lined up with what seemed like every other adult on the ship to make reservations. Some went away disappointed because appointments for massages, particularly for open-air sessions on Disney's private island were filled. (The trick to getting the appointments is to go immediately to the spa after boarding and make reservations.)

Many were also disappointed that reservations for Palo filled quickly. But if you wait too late to reserve your spot in this adults-only restaurant, it isn't the end of the world. Disney Magic has another interesting culinary experience in store-rotation dining.

Rotation dining means that you eat in a different family restaurant (there are three on the ship) each night. Your waitstaff follows you from restaurant to restaurant, so you'll always have the same people serving you.

Of the three family restaurants, Parrot Cay has the most casual atmosphere, with vibrant colors and foods prepared with a Caribbean twist (the coconut shrimp are divine). Lumiere's, the most elegant of the three (and our teenagers' favorite), serves cuisine with a French flair. But the most amazing of the trio is Animator's Palate.

The night we dined in Animator's Palate, Tim, our waiter from Belgium, was all smiles as we stared at the bland, black-and-white decor. "You will be surprised," he teased. "I won't tell you how, but watch the pictures on the walls for a clue" As dinner progressed, the cartoons that looked as if they'd come from a Disney coloring book slowly turned vibrant with a rainbow of hues. Even the columns in the room, shaped like paintbrushes, their bristles a mass of tiny lights, shone with first one pigment then another as the room pulsed with color.

Disney Magic docked in Nassau on day two, where passengers scattered to shop or to enjoy excursions that ranged from snorkeling to tours of the city. That night teens departed on their own musical, moonlit cruise of the harbor, while many adults headed for island casinos.

Day three dawned on my favorite part of the cruise-Castaway Cay, Disney's private island. There are three beaches on Castaway Cay, one for family (the liveliest), one for adults (lovely and secluded), and one for teens (within walking distance of, but not in view of, the family beach). Umbrellas and beach chairs are plentiful and free. Equipment such as bicycles, plastic rafts, sea kayaks, and snorkeling equipment are available for reasonable rental fees.

We spent most of our time snorkeling the 15-acre underwater trail just off the family beach. The sea life here isn't as prolific as in other areas of the Caribbean, but we did spot a barracuda, a stingray, and a host of fish large and small. We also agreed that next time we'll bring water shoes to protect our feet from the scattered stretches of sharp offshore rocks.

At the end of the day, we brushed off the sand, turned in our snorkel gear, and reluctantly headed back to the ship. But the evening was still young, music was playing, and Port Canaveral was a whole night's cruise away. Karen Lingo

Disney Magic offers three- or four-day cruise vacations. Rates: begin at $799 per person, double occupancy in an inside stateroom, and range to $2,999 per person in the Royal Suite. Also available are seven-day vacation packages that include air transportation from more than 150 gateway cities, accommodations at a selected Walt Disney World Resort hotel, unlimited admission to the various Disney parks, and a cruise. Prices range $1,295-$4,225, based on double occupancy and type of accommodations. For more information: Contact the Southern Living Travel Service at 1-800-758-7477 or your local travel agent. For information from Disney, visit www.disney cruise.com or call (407) 566-7000.