My old Kentucky home

Southern Living, Dec 1998 by Griffin, Eleanor

Join this Bluegrass native on a quest for antiques.

I love to wander the horse country looking for four-legged objects with fine bloodlines.

Regrettably, I'm not talking about Thoroughbreds-I have to admire them from afar each spring and fall at Keeneland Race Course.

My search is different; it's for four-legged, Southern-preferably Kentucky-antique chests and tables. And, I'll let you in on a secret.

The Bluegrass may be known for horses, but it's also home to a Triple Crown lineup of smalltown meccas for antiques lovers. As an antidote to the siren song of the mall, here's one Kentuckian's list of favorite antiques shops.

GETTING STARTED

Our journey begins on I-64, about an hour east of Louisville. Take the Midway exit (State 62) to travel back 200 years in time.

Midway: Named for its location between Lexington and Frankfort, Midway was built by a railroad and was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1978. Many of its charming Main Street storefronts are now antiques shops. Non-shoppers will be captivated by the rolling vistas of wooden fences, announcing you're in horse farm country.

Gordon H. Greek Antiques offers fine American and English furnishings in an old railroad warehouse. Prices: primarily upper end, but understandably so for the quality; 204 North Gratz Street, (606) 846-4336.

Midway Gallery often has country as well as more refined pieces. Two 19th-century Kentucky chests, always a find, were in the shop when we visited. Prices: not inexpensive, but fair, based on the quality mix; 132 Main Street, (606) 846-5669.

This & That has a modest selection but places greater emphasis on new furniture made from Kentucky cherry and reproductions from old wood. Prices: generally affordable, as reproductions typically cost less; 126 East Main Street, (606) 846-9191.

Lunch spot: Midway is a small town, so options are limited. Try the Main Street Cafe (117 East Main Street) for a welcome soup and sandwich break. Price: You can't beat a homemade meal for $5 to $7.

Leaving Midway, take U.S. 62 to the outskirts of town. Turn left onto State 1681, also known as Old Frankfort Pike, a two lane taking you into the heart of horse country. Continue on into Lexington, the unofficial capital of the Bluegrass and home to the University of Kentucky, where old and new mesh comfortably.

Lexington: A must-see is the Lexington Antique Gallery, a collection of 28 dealers, under the guidance of Betty Hoopes. Locals make this a regular stop for antiques and collectibles. You'll find a variety of dealers' wares, including 18th- and l9th-century English and American pieces, linens, and rugs. The gallery is also noted for a fine collection of coin silver, especially julep cups. Prices: small finds from less than $50 to treasures in the thousands; 637 East Main Street, (606) 231-8197.

Boone s Antiques of Kentucky has a huge mix of French, English, and American antiques. Prices: runs the gamut with such a large selection; 4996 Old Versailles Road (U.S. 60), (606) 254-5335.

Be sure to stop by Keeneland, one of Kentucky's loveliest racetracks, just down the street. Stroll the grounds for a feel of the "Sport of Kings."

Paris: Who needs the Eiffel Tower when you're traveling up Paris Pike (U.S. 27/68) surrounded by horse farms and 150-year-old rock fences? Many of these fences were built in the mid-1800s by Irish stonemasons. A local group, the Dry Stone Masonry Conservancy, preserves the structures and craft. Allow about 40 minutes to drive leisurely so you'll have a chance to see the historical markers, admire the stonemasons' work, and soak up the beauty.

Loch Lea Antiques is a winner in Paris. Owner Lyn Layton's experienced eye offers a well-edited selection, from affordable country pieces and toys to a fine Hepplewhite Pembroke table with a four-figure price tag. Lyn, like most small shop owners, knows the provenance of her finds. Prices: very fair, but this does not translate into cheap; 410 Main Street, (606) 987-7070.

Return to Lexington. If time permits, detour along the Iron Works Pike to Kentucky Horse Park for the films, museums, buggy tours, and working farm tours.

SIDE TRIPS

If you have an extra day or two, plan a trip to these noteworthy shops.

Lancaster: Lancaster Antique Market, 102 Hamilton Avenue, (606) 792-4536. About 30 minutes south of Lexington, U.S. 27 to State 52. Terry and Ellen Tate know Kentucky and Southern primitive fumiture. They also sell clearly marked quality reproductions. Prices: It's worth the drive for very fair prices.

Shelbyville: Wakefield-Scearce Galleries has one of the finest collections of English antiques in the South. You'll find gorgeous pieces in room settings. The Silver Vault is a wonderful source for fine silver too. Prices: Bring your checkbook for once-in-a-lifetime finds with a good mix of quality reproductions.

The galleries are located in Science Hill, a series of buildings that was originally a preparatory school for young ladies from 1825 to 1939. Today, the buildings house six antiques shops plus a restaurant, the Science Hill Inn; (502) 633-4382. For lunch reservations call (502) 633-2825.