Head for the hills

Southern Living, May 1999

Friday afternoons, Houstonians and others head west into the hills above the Brazos River. There they slip into the comforts of bed-andbreakfast inns around towns such as Brenham and Round Top. Dozens of inns open their doors in towns and along quiet curves in country roads. Come snooze in an antique bed by night and explore the countryside by day.

Staying Power

In downtown Brenham, owners Pam and Tommy Traylor welcome you to Ant Street Inn. Spacious rooms in this late 19th-century brick building are filled with magnificent antiques. Several rooms feature oversize tubs for two, and all have televisions, telephones, and computer modem ports. A full breakfast is included in the rate, which ranges $85-$165. Call (409) 836-7393 or 1-800-481-1951; visit their Web site at www.antstreetinn.com. "Well-behaved" youngsters are welcome at Browning Plantation in Chappell Hill, a magnificent antebellum Greek Revival structure. Many guests climb to the widow's walk to catch the breezes. Others snooze in a hammock bounce on the io ling board (a porch bench native to old Southern plantations), and play fetch with the two dogs of the owners, Marilyn and Waddy Wadkins. $85-$110. Call (409) 836-6144 or toll free 1-888-9126144; visit their Web site at www.brown ingplantation.com.

Bring fishing tackle to Heart of My Heart Ranch, 1 mile south of Round Top. You can fish in the pond or go for a walk or a bicycle ride. Guests stay in the home of the owners, Bill and Frances Harris, or in historic log structures. After breakfast, make the day as lively or as lazy as you like. $135-$225. Call (409) 249-3171 or 1-800-327-1242; visit their Web site at www.heartofmy heartranch.com.

Deer amble around and coyotes cry at night across the 35 acres of The Settlement-eight art-filled cabins, cottages, and houses. Guys like the Pioneer Log Cabin with its loft sleeping space. Oma's Cottage resembles a grandmother's house. Full breakfasts are served in The Barn, the dining hall. $90-$200. Call (409) 249-5015 or toll free 1-888-768-6386; visit their Web site at www.thesettlement.com. Grassy lawns and massive live oaks make a cool, green retreat at Round Top Inn, just south of downtown Round Top. While there, you can browse three shops, including the historic shop for plants at the Herb Haus. Make reservations for dinner across the street at Lantana. $95-$120. Call (409) 249-5294 or toll free 1-888356-8946; visit their Web site at www.roundtopinn.com

What To Do, Where To Go Antiques and antique towns abound in these hills. Start in Round Top at the 1884 Round Top General Store, and then drive the small roads to Fayetteville and Bellville-both with town squares worth investigating. Stroll down the main street of Chappell Hill, a gem of a 19th-century town with antiques shops, a good museum, and the Texana Cigar Company, where you can have a smoke and a gourmet cup of coffee. Shop in downtown Brenham (ladies like the fashions at Nellie's Boutique and Gallery) and visit the Pleasant Hill Winery for a tour and tastings.

Dining Details

For lunch in downtown Brenham, Must Be Heaven makes incredible sandwiches on homemade bread. Don't pass up the pies. For dinner choose Volare, where chef Silvio Di Gennaro cooks specialties from his native Italy, such as lasagna. In Chappell Hill, Bevers Kitchen serves chicken and dumplings on Saturday, along with other house specialties. Chef Andre Delacroix makes delicious French bread for his country French menu at The Brazos Belle Restaurant, located in an 1870s general store in Burton. In Round Top, Lantana has recently opened for fine dining. The king of cooking in the area, however, is still Bud Royer, who presides over Royers' Round Top Cafe, on the square in Round Top. The portions are huge, but save room for the homemade pies.

Just the Two of You

Call for tickets to classical music concerts at International FestivalInstitute, (409) 249-3129, in Round Top. Head for Independence, where you can picnic at Old Baylor Park and buy vintage varieties of roses at the Antique Rose Emporium. For More Information Washington County Chamber of Commerce, 314 South Austin Street, Brenham, TX 77833; (409) 836-3695 or 1-800-2253695. Web site: www.brenham texas.com. Round Top Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 216, Round Top, TX 78954; (409) 249-4042. Gary D. Ford