Deep in the heart of Texas

Southern Living, Nov 1999 by Vanhooser, Cassandra M

Dust off that old image of Abilene as a little cow town on the wide, windswept prairie. This West Texas town is surprisingly sophisticated. In addition to the symphony and the ballet, there's a fine mix of restaurants, art galleries, and intriguing shops just waiting to be explored.

Don't Miss

* Peanut brittle and handdipped chocolates from Candies by Vletas.

* Touring the art, historical, and children's museums in the old Hotel Grace.

* A steak, hand-cut to your specifications, at Joe Allen's Pit Bar-B-Que.

* An evening at the spectacular Paramount Theatre.

* Imagining yourself a soldier stationed at Fort Phantom Hill.

Staying Power

Abilene boasts a large number of chain hotels and motels including Embassy Suites ($84-$160; 1-800362-2779), Quality Inn ($49-$125; [915] 6760222), and Courtyard by Marriott ($64-$119; 1-800321-2211).

Shopping List

First stop: Candies by Vletas. See workers hand-dip chocolates, then try their famous peanut brittle. At the Abilene Bookstore, you could spend hours browsing through the newest books, gifts, and art supplies. For original art, stop by The Center for Contemporary Arts, which features working artists and galleries. There's also a gallery and studio at The Potters of Hickory Street. It's About Time has a mix of antiques, home accessories, and gifts.

Even if you do not have a horse, you'll want to stop by Art Reed Custom Saddles. Cowboys and ranchers often wait months while Art designs and hand tools saddles. For a pair of custom-designed boots, be sure to visit James Leddy Boots. James crafts footwear for rodeo and country stars, as well as the everyday cowpoke.

Dining Details

If the number of pickups in the parking lot is directly proportional to the quality of food inside, then Joe Allen's Pit BarB-Que is definitely the place to be. Locals say Joe Allen's serves the best barbecue in town. Choose from ribs, brisket, sausage, ham, or chicken, or take all five ($5.49-$7.75). The steaks, handcut to your specifications and cooked over a mesquite fire, are the best around.

For fine dining, make reservations downtown at Cypress Street Station. This upscale eatery is housed in a 1920s building with a pressed-tin ceiling and open fireplace in the center. We enjoyed the tortilla soup ($3.95), buttermilk fried chicken with cream gravy ($6.95), and pasta carbonara ($10.95). The menu changes seasonally.

We also like The Abilene Coffee Company for cappuccino and McKay's Bakery for pastries.

Just the Two of You

Treat your sweetheart to a night at Abilene's famous Paramount Theatre. You'll both enjoy the theater's old-world splendor-arched columns, sweeping staircases, hand-blown chandeliers, the Moorish towers with domed turrets flanking the stage. Choose from live performances or classic and art films.

With the Kids

Starfighter. Flying Fortress. Shooting Star. These are but a few of the 30 aircraft on outdoor display at the Linear Air Park at Dyess Air Force Base. Park your car and examine these hulking aircraft up close. Look in the new Visitors Center for aviation exhibits. Admission is free, but you must stop at the main gate for a temporary pass to the base.

Kids also love The Abilene Zoo & Discovery Center where raucous birds, towering giraffes, and dusty elephants are on display. If the weather is chilly, try the Children's Museum, one of three housed in the old Hotel Grace. Youngsters can explore Kidsville or anchor a newscast while mom and dad check out local history or the current art exhibits at the other two museums there.

For More Information

Contact the Abilene Convention & Visitors Bureau, 1101 North First Street, Abilene, TX 79601; (915) 676-2556 or 1-800-727-7704. Web site: www.abi lene.com/visitors.

Cassandra M. Vanhooser

A TASTE OF TEXAS

How does a cattleman from Buffalo Gap become a world-renowned chef? By accident, says Tom Perini, owner of Perini Ranch Steakhouse.

Tom grew up here and got his start cooking steaks for the cowhands. By 1983, he had opened a restaurant and started inviting other folks to try his cuisine.

Today, people come from all over for a truly Texas experience. The ranch sits near the Callahan Divide and by the natural pass used as a route for the Western Cattle Trail. A converted hay barn, it has a big stone fireplace, wooden floors, and a patio shaded by mesquite trees. The menu offers steaks, catfish, ribs, and more.

In 1995 his mesquitesmoked peppered beef tenderloin was selected by the New York Times as the year's best mailorder food gift. Now you can find Tom's tenderloin in Neiman Marcus and Williams-Sonoma, Inc., catalogs.