Big cities, small towns

Southern Living, Apr 2000 by Caruthers, Teree

As the South has blossomed over the century, so have its cities. Skies are dotted with high-rises, and townhouses have replaced outhouses. But one thing has remained the samethe Southern spirit of community

Throughout its history, the South has taken pride in its neighborhoods-the beautifully kept magnolia- and dogwood-lined streets, the comer drugstore that sold everything from dolls to dental floss, the local market where handpicked produce was the norm, and even the park where families could play together on a Sunday afternoon. Fortunately, there are still places like this in the South. Sure, the comer store has evolved into a collection of boutiques, gift shops, and galleries, but the spirit remains. Before you venture into the abyss of highrises, highways, and shopping malls, spend some time in these Southern neighborhoods.

TIES THAT BIND

The quiet community of Kirkwood, Missouri, just southwest of St. Louis, was once anything but. As the first planned suburb west of the Mississippi River, Kirkwood had much to prove in its early days. Train tracks still run through the center of town, and all throughout are testimonies to Kirkwood's decades-old love affair with the railroad. Retirees still gather in the afternoon for a game of checkers at the old Amtrak station. And commuters still take the daily shuttle into the city.

Phyllis Phelps, Vicki Short, and Sue Swoboda picked the perfect spot for their shop, Down by the Station. This quaint gift boutique is housed in a building almost as old as the town itself and even boasts a caboose that serves as a room in the store. Visitors could spend the entire day browsing the shops that line West Argonne and Jefferson Streets, taking their pick of grown-up toys, trinkets, and antique treasures.

But it's the little things that make this railroad community special. The Olive Chapel African Methodist Episcopal Church, a one-room parish, has been on the corner of Harrison and Monroe since 1899. According to Rev. Brenda Hayes, the congregation has been meeting for almost 150 years. At the Kirkwood Farmer's Market (where fresh fruits and vegetables are as good as the handpicked variety of days past), Mark Geringer, owner of Geringer Plant Company, sells pink, purple, and lilac petunias along with his (locally) famous Mark's Magic Soil.

And visit the O.K. Hatchery Feed and Garden Store ("O.K." stands for the original owner, Oscar Krieger), another Kirkwood tradition that has been in the Krieger family since 1927. Walk in today and you'll find the second generation-Ronald Kriegermanning the counter. You can still buy chicken feed at Ronald's store-as well as garden supplies and household tools-and you'll also get the kind of small-town friendliness and service you might not find elsewhere this close to the city.

For information contact the Kirkwood Area Chamber of Commerce, 138 West Madison Avenue, St. Louis, MO 63122; (314) 821-4161 or 1-800-231-4331.

A STREETCAR NAMED "SOUTH END"

Just as in Kirkwood, transportation certainly played a key role in the development of Charlotte's South End. But instead of the train, it was the trolley that turned this cotton center into the bustling Queen City suburb of Dilworth. Wealthy industrialists made their homes along the tree-lined streets, and today, sturdy Victorian mansions serve as reminders of days gone by.

The commercial heart of the neighborhood is the Atherton Mills shopping complex, a restored cotton mill owned by cotton tycoon D.A. Tompkins. The mill stood empty for years until the first shops and restaurants began to open a decade ago. Now, South and East Boulevards, which anchor the area, overflow with activity. Kids can paint the day away, creating their own ceramic masterpieces at Flying Saucers in The Pavilion at South End across from Atherton Mills, and moms can treat themselves to some rest and relaxation at nearby Spa South.

For rejuvenation of the culinary kind, Pewter Rose is one of the oldest restaurants in South End. Try the champagne scallops, but be sure to save room for dessert---creme brulee or fresh fruit sorbet.

For art lovers, South End is quickly becoming a haven, with galleries and showrooms springing up at every turn. Housed in what was once the mill's packaging room, gallery W.D.O. has been a South End fixture for six years. The gallery features both traditional and contemporary art and fine crafts from both local and nationally acclaimed artists. Owner Rob Williams is a former high school art teacher. In an ironic twist of fate, one of his prize pupils, Katharine Hidell, recently opened a gallery of her own, the Hidell Brooks Gallery, just a few blocks down on South Boulevard.

Future plans for the South End include extending the trolley line, now restored, to connect with the new Charlotte arts district, North End.

For information contact Info Charlotte, operated by the Charlotte Convention and Visitors Bureau, 330 South Tryon Street, Charlotte, NC 28202; (704) 331-2700 or 1-800-2314636, or visit www.charlottecvb.org.