Cooking at Blackberry farm

Southern Living, Aug 2000 by Stith, Mark G

Learn culinary magic tricks at one of the South's finest inns.

Blackberry Farm certainly deserves its reputation as one of the South's finest upscale country inns. You can't beat the location: snuggled up against the Great Smoky Mountains and tucked down a winding two-lane road not far from Townsend, Tennessee. Owners Kreis and Sandy Beall do a marvelous job of blending luxurious accommodations in a laid-back atmosphere.

So it's quite fitting that Blackberry hosts some of the South's most prestigious chefs during its cooking schools, held several times throughout the year. Set into a two-day format, they combine classroom lessons with several informal get-togethers. Blackberry's executive chef, John Fleer, teaches as well, letting you in on some of the fabulous recipes he's created for guests. He's as entertaining as he is passionate about his craft.

"Laughter is brightest where the food is the best," John says, adding, "Great food can be enjoyed without pretension." And after watching him create a few simple dishes, from Stout Beer Batter Bread to Basil Lemon Crusted Grouper, the class is hooked.

The lessons are hosted in Kreis and Sandy's welcoming home, Maple Cottage, set among Blackberry's 1,100 acres of rolling hills. The house has a large, commercial-type kitchen with an expansive counter and overhead mirror. Classes are small enough-limited to 20-to allow guests to meet the chef as well as get to know each other.

Norman Love, from the Ritz-Carlton in Naples, Florida, was the guest chef when we attended one weekend. His specialty is desserts, and he had the group spellbound with his creations, all done with a juggler's flourish of knives, whisks, and spoons. "He's not just a chef. He's more like a painter with chocolate," said Janice Piper, a class participant. "I enjoyed watching him work as much as sampling what he made."

Also among the group were guest vintners Jean-Noel and wife Marketta Fourmeaux, from Chateau Potelle in California's Napa Valley. The couple hosted a wine tasting and suggested certain types to accompany the meals. The combination of fine wine, excellent cuisine, and luxurious accommodations made for an unforgettable experience.

Even better, you'll be able to relive your experience when you try making some of this Blackberry mountain magic at home. Mark G. Stith Why try to escape August's heat? Revel in it on the sand-trimmed shores of Orange Beach, where warm Gulf breezes soften gentle blue waves.

You won't find the namesake citrus groves in Alabama's easternmost coastal community these days. You will discover, however, miles of wide ivory beaches, bays full of marinas with excursion boats decked by tantalizing seafood restaurants, and tempting shopping stops. Come to Orange Beach to immerse yourself in the watery activities and make time to simply relax on the edge of it all.

Friday

Coast into the weekend by hitting the beach first. Leave your sandals behind, and take a walk in the surf. After 3 p.m., check into the Island House Hotel ($135; [334] 981-6100). This isn't the largest resort in town, but it has everything you need-Gulf views, a comfortable cafe, a swimming pool, and beach chair rentals.

Before going back out, make your weekend reservations: Call Mangos on the Island for Saturday dinner ([334] 981-1416) and Dolphin Cruises for Sunday's boat ride ([334] 943-3510).

Plan an early meal tonight you'll beat the crowds and still see the sunset's pink and purple palette. Louisiana Lagniappe, a restaurant whose decor is as enticing as its menu, sits above the marina at SanRoc Cay, a stunning new pedestrian mall of boutiques and restaurants. Once you take your eyes off the quirky palm tree sculptures and crawfish-shaped doors, order the house specialty--Grouper Pontchartrain (fresh Gulf fish topped with a huge fried soft-shell crab, $19.95).

Saturday

Get in the rhythm of the beach with a sunrise walk. Remember to bring a small plastic bag to tote any shells you spy that washed up along the surf. Watch the sea for a pod of dolphins swimming by most mornings.

Breakfast is easy at the hotel's buffet ($5.99). Help yourself to hearty servings of scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, biscuits, and fried apple slices before returning to the beach for a morning of sunbathing. Fly a kite, or float on a raft in the rolling waves. Sandbars close to shore make swimming fun here. Midday temperatures can soar into the 90s, so shower off and head back to SanRoc Cay to finish your exploring.

Before you begin shopping, stop by SanRoc Cay Delicatezza International Market, where the fresh sandwiches and salads taste as delightful as the shelves of gourmet goodies look. Just next door, Melanie's offers accessories for your home. You'll also find one of the best selections of casual footwear at Sand Dollar Shoes, cool beach clothes at Ocean Eddies and Surfer Girl, and affordable silver jewelry at Private Gallery. If you're feeling decadent, squeeze in a massage upstairs at Aracelly's Day Spa.

Between 2 and 4 p.m., the fishing boats return to the marina. Watching the deckhands unload and clean the day's catch may prompt you to charter a deep-sea fishing trip for your next visit.