Food finds: Washington, D.C. and Donaldsonville, Louisiana

Southern Living, Dec 2000 by Campbell, Dana Adkins

Barely 30, these stellar fellas -Jose Andres and Steve Zucker- are already star chefs in our eyes.

Jaleo, Washington, D.C.

This Capital restaurant whirls with color, flavor, and excitement-but not with attitude. Chef Jose Andres, who's been in this kitchen almost eight years now, is more about fun than fuss. Yes, his food is fabulous and well worth its recent acclaim (from the James Beard Foundation and Wine Spectator magazine, for starters). But he hasn't let it all go to his toque.

As you may have guessed from Jose's name and "Jaleo" (which means revelry, merrymaking, or an Andalusian dance), this hot spot is Spanish. "I'm taking it very personally to promote my country," Jose says in his lyrical native accent. From lunch through late night, he offers 60-plus hot and chilled tapas-traditional Spanish small plates-- with sherries and wines from his piece of the globe. Those who prefer entrees have a few nightly choices, always including paella.

Typically, big names come with big prices. But not with Jose. He aims (and hits) high on the plate, low on the check. Those 60 or so tapas each run $2.95-$7.95. Two of them will satiate, three will fill, and four will stuff. Make one of those postres, or dessert, which definitely merits room in your grazing plan.

For a glimpse of Jose's talent, try the eggplant flan, a more rustic rendition than the silky, sweet one you may know. Roasted red pepper sauce circles the savory, chilled dome. From the hot selections, three searedto-golden chunks of monkfish bask on a puree of tomatoes, sherry, and cream with welcome, intense green olives. End with a refreshing eye-opener: white chocolate "mousse" (dense, like flan or panna cotta) topped with crunchy, candied nuts; tangy, dried fruits; and sauces of yogurt and sweet muscatel (dessert wine). This trio, with a glass of wine, coffee, and tip, totaled $30a fact both Jose and I love.

"I'm very proud of the place," he says, "...to show that a $25- to $30-check restaurant can be more than Caesar salad." Oh, so much more. 480 Seventh Street NW, Washington, DC 20004; (202) 628-7949. Tapas: $2.95-$7.50. Entrees: $12.95-$39.95.

Lafitte's Landing Donaldsonville, LA

Most who know this landmark think first of its owner and founding father, chef John Folse. But because John travels to create his cookbooks, public television series, and famed Louisiana fare, he trusts executive chef Steve Zucker to put that passion on the plates back home.

Steve moved from North Carolina to New Orleans at age 15, soon taking to the whisk in both culinary school and restaurants there. He furthered his training at Johnson and Wales, is a certified sommelier, and cooked in Las Vegas awhile before returning last year to the kitchen he headed before, at age 21Lafitte's. (It was relocated in 1999 to John's historic home after the original burned down.)

This special-occasion spot sits remotely on the River Road between Baton Rouge and New Orleans, so it's truly a destination restaurant. Steve makes sure visitors aren't disappointed after their trek. Like Jose at Jaleo, he loves concocting and embellishing the food he grew up with. Working with Louisiana farmers and his own small garden, he fills the menu with fresh flavors. Evenings here become memories of crab cakes with tasso and beurre blanc Creole, and venison with Ruston peach sauce on mashed sweet potatoes.

But those who splurge on the extravagant, overnight suites at the restaurant's Bittersweet Plantation Home get the best treat: breakfast. Cooking for just a few, Steve can give extra attention. A martini glass cradles soft, scrambled eggs with bechamel sauce. And thick French toast comes regally dressed in whipped cream and syrup made with just-- plucked mint from that herb garden. 404 Claiborne Avenue, Donaldsonville, LA 70346 (225) 473-1232. Entrees: $19-$29.

Dana Adkins Campbell