Weekend: Mountain View, Arkansas

Southern Living, May 2001 by Kunstel, Stacy

In Stone County, it's not the robins that signal fair days ahead. It's the musicians.

It's 3:15 p.m. when I roll into Mountain View, Arkansas, a tiny town of less than 3,000 people in the hills 2 1/2 hours north of Little Rock.

Already, groups of musicians are playing around the square. A 40-something woman working a bass bigger than she is carries the beat of a folk song while a guitar player and a fiddler sow notes in the spring air. They've been itching for the warm breath of May, and it has finally returned, bringing back the music that draws visitors from across the country.

Friday--Music to My Ears

The first order of business this weekend is checking into the town's lodgings. I chose to stay at the Wildflower Bed & Breakfast (rates range $67-$99; 1-800-- 591-4879), but I also recommend the Inn at Mountain View (rates range $65-- $100; 1-800-535-1301).Anchoring corners of the square, both inns offer nice rooms and breakfast. Be sure to ask for a room with a private bath. The Ozark Folk Center (1 mile away) has comfortable chain hotel-style lodging (rates range $55-$80; 1-800-264-3655).

When the weather's right, sitting outside pickin' is the thing to do here at night. There's no admission fee, no stage, and no electric instruments, just loosely gathered groups of people in chairs and on porches around the town square.

Long after dark a mandolin leads a bass and three guitars in a song about love lost in the hills. Locals sit and gossip, snack on ice cream, and clap to their favorite songs, such as "Oh Lonesome Me." But no one is alone on this evening. Strangers and neighbors alike are taken into the fold of melody and harmony.

Saturday--Around the Square

Chirping birds replace the harmonies of the night before as I slowly awake to the smell of fresh coffee at The Wildflower Inn. I look outside almost expecting to see groups of musicians where I left them last night, but for now there are only frolicking squirrels.

As quickly as I am out the door to shop around the square, musicians begin unpacking instruments and limbering their fingers. They create a glorious tune that outshines the bright sun.

There is a reason why they call it Stone County. Every building around the square is made from the most beautiful cream-colored sandstone. Music follows me as I stroll by storefronts such as Ozark Rocker & Wood Co.

On the west side of the square, Town And Country interiors is pretty highbrow for a seemingly simple community, but they're into the musical act too. Restored violins and guitars hang in the window.

I pick up a hand-thrown raku bowl for a gift at the Arkansas Craft Gallery. Next door, I dine on quiche and peach cobbler at The Gourmet Goose, where lunch specials run an average of $4.95.

Just across the street at the Candy Bouquet, I find the finest fudge ever. Trust me, if you get less than a pound you'll have to make a trip back for more.

Also on the square sits The Ironworks. Two floors showcase handcrafted pieces, including bedframes, tables, and candle-- holders, from the factory (Stone County Ironworks) located a mile down the road.

For dinner, Tommy's Famous can't be beat. J. Tom Miller and his family serve dry Memphis-style ribs (a half rack for $9.60) and fabulous pizzas (a 12-inch for $7-$12) in this dark tavern-like restaurant. After consulting with J. Tom, I decide on hand-tossed pizza with white bianca cheese, shiitake mushrooms, and dollops of his homemade pesto. I'm excited about the decision until he says, "Our marinara sauce is the best thing, though." So I ask for a side of sauce to dip my crusts in. Delicious.

As I wander back across the square, two groups of musicians play on either side of Mountain View Music, where you can find woven baskets, instruments, and sheet music. The sheet music must be for visitors because I never saw a single leaflet flutter out of a case. Musicians here play from the heart, from the soul, and, I'm sure, from habit.

Sunday--I'm Still Singing

I again awake to birdsong. I look out over the square, where 1,000 people had milled last night. Now, it's quiet as prayer, only blades of grass move.

I drive a mile outside town to the Ozark Folk Center, an Arkansas state park and living-history center (tickets are $8-$13.50 adults, $5-$7.25 ages 6-12). I wander past the blacksmith shop and the fiddle maker to the weaving shop, where master craftspeople are at work creating rugs, blankets, sweaters, and vests. Just my luck, most items are for sale in the gift shop. I also visit with knife makers, potters, quilters, and woodworkers before dining at The Skillet for lunch (entrees start at $4.50). Afterward, I listen to the staff band which plays a variety of music every hour from open to close.

Feeling the musical heritage of the area beginning to take root within me, I stop at The Dulcimer Shoppe on State 9 to pick up information about their workshops on dulcimer making and playing. Maybe I'll have an instrument figured out by next spring. Stacy Kunstel

GOINGS ON

You'll find music on the square every night and Saturday afternoons.