Christmas in Branson

Southern Living, Nov 2001 by Butler, Wanda

If it's holiday shows you want, turn off the television, and head to Missouri.

You don't have to travel to New York City to enjoy the sights and sounds of the holidays onstage. Lights, music, and laughter can all be found in the not-so-big city of Branson, Missouri, where life is a celebration all year long, but especially at this time of year.

Friday

For a truly special stay, check in to Chateau on the Lake Resort Hotel in Branson (rates range $119-229; 1-- 888-333-5253). This resort's spacious rooms offer a breathtaking view of Table Rock Lake from your window, especially at sunset.

But time's a-wasting. Grab a jacket (it can be downright chilly here), and get on down to the dock to board the Showboat Branson Belle for a holiday dinner cruise (1-800-775-2628). Decked out in lights, garland, and ribbon, the paddlewheeler cruises Table Rock Lake while treating you to a three-course meal and a show. You'll find the Prime rib delectable, but don't pass up the flaming baked Alaska for dessert. Then sit back and enjoy a festive musical salute to America's favorite movies, led by a quartet of singers and dancers. Consider this a preview of great things to come.

After that appetizer of entertainment, you're ready to take on your first bona fide Branson stage show. The longest running performance in town is Presleys' Country Jubilee on State 76, the town's main drag ([417] 334-- 4874). Be prepared for the traffic. It can be bumper to bumper before and after showtime. You'll notice that matriarch Bessie Presley (no relation to Elvis) always sits in the front row. You're likely to find a full house, with the comedian, Harley Worthit, warming up the audience. "You know what's wrong with political jokes?" he asks the audience. "They get elected." The humor is fun and family friendly. The talent of the musicians is truly amazing. Country music, sung and played with professional pizzazz, creates a memorable show. And that's only one of dozens of offerings in Branson during the holiday season.

Before retiring, drive the 2-mile stretch of lights that illuminate the Ozark town this time of year.

Saturday

After breakfast at the hotel, get ready for an act you wouldn't expect to find in Missouri-Shoji Tabuchi s Christmas Show ([417] 334-7469). Yes, they have shows early in the morning as well as at night. Shoji and his purple theater are not-to-be-missed fixtures in Branson. A true entertainer, he plays the fiddle, sings country and pop music, and puts on one heck of a show. Aside from the entertainment, you must see the bathrooms. The women's room boasts a chandelier and fresh flowers; the men's has a pool table.

After the high drama of Shoji, grab a low-key lunch at Saint Louis Bread Co. The line moves quickly, and soup and a sandwich will fortify you for the next show-The Radio City Christmas Spectacular, starring the Rockettes (1-800-572-5223). Get to The Grand Palace theater early, because this performance always proves extremely popular. These high steppers are a kick with everything you would expect to see in New York, including The Nutcracker ballet. The costumes alone make the show worth seeing.

Now there's just time enough for dinner before your next entertainment extravaganza, so head on over to the Welk Resort Center & Champagne Theatre (1-800-505-93 55). For those of you who wondered what happened to all the musicians and singers with The Lawrence Welk Show... well, they're here. While eating dinner in their restaurant, you learn that the Lennon Sisters, Lennon Brothers, RaIna English, Henry Cuesta, and Mary Lou Metzger are all alive and well and still playing. Their holiday show delights, and the Lennon Sisters look just the same-- I mean, just the same.

With visions of sugarplums dancing in your head, you'll sleep well tonight.

Sunday

Ready for an elegant meal? Take a 10-- mile drive south to Big Cedar Lodge for a fabulous Sunday brunch at their Worman House restaurant. Take your time at the enormous buffet, which includes sirloin, salmon, omelets cooked to order, a luscious smoky tomato soup, and more desserts than places to put them. Enjoy the view from the dining room, and prepare to spend the rest of the day at Silver Dollar City.

You've never seen a 17-foot-tall talking Christmas tree? How about 4 million lights? It's all at Silver Dollar City during its holiday festival, "An Old Time Christmas" (1-800-475-9370). Here you'll see even more live shows, including Christmas With the Cajuns. You can do lots of holiday shopping, too, with craftspeople making and selling their woodcarving, blown glass, and pottery. Grab a s'more to take with you as you leave. Many people who visit Branson come back often for s'more of the same. WANDA BUTLER