Satilla River: Georgia

Southern Living, Spring 2002 by Bender, Steve

Kayaks slice through a liquid canvas of gold and into the gallery of imminent dawn. Save for paddles caressing the water, all is silence and reflection. The Satilla River still sleeps.

Appreciation for this river slumbers too. Unlike the nearby famous Suwannee, no one writes songs about the Satilla. Few advocacy groups charge to its defense. But local people know the truth-to spend a morning such as this on its dark, glossy waters is to hear your spirit sing.

Named for an officer in the Spanish army, the Satilla forms one of Georgia's largest blackwater river systems, draining 3,530 square miles. Born in myriad swamps dotting the Coastal Plain, it meanders for more than 200 miles before emptying into St. Andrews Sound near Brunswick.

The water isn't really black-it just looks that way from a bridge or riverbank. Tannic acid from decaying vegetation dyes the water a clear reddish-brown. Though it may appear otherwise, water quality is excellent-thanks to minimal riverside development and runoff. Thus, the Satilla watershed supports a raft of wildlife, including ducks, turtles, alligators, and even deer and wild turkeys.

It hosts a superb fishery too. "The Satilla is one of the premier redbreast sunfish rivers in the state," says Bert Deener of the Georgia Department of Natural Resources. "Sunfish are fun to catch and good eating too-real favorites of the locals." Largemouth bass, crappie, and bluegill are also plentiful.

Michael Gowen grew up fishing, shrimping, and floating the Satilla. His great-great-grandfather is buried high on a bluff overlooking the river. For the last eight years, Michael's company, SouthEast Adventure Outfitters, has been offering guided kayak and canoe trips through quiet coastal waters, including the Satilla. "The easy, relaxed nature of the river is what I like," Michael says. "It's a good one for families and kids."

That's because it's a slow river, with not a single rapid above Class I. Oozing past Ogeechee lime and pond cypress swamps, it moves like drips of molasses down the side of a bottle. Brilliant white sandbars on the inside curves of countless bends provide good spots for takeout points, picnics, and camping. About the only unlikely hazard you might encounter here is a water snake flopping into the boat from an overhanging limb. But just keep to the middle of the stream and your day will be a lot less eventful.

Unspoiled, unnoticed, and unhurried, the Satilla proceeds like the passing of the day, a river of tea-colored time. Though it doesn't need people, it welcomes them, winning converts every day. "If you float the Satilla, you'll fall in love with it," says Bert.

He's absolutely right-I have.

SouthEast Adventure Outfitters is located on State 17 South in Brunswick. The St. Simons Island shop is open daily year-round. Half-day tours on the Satilla are $75. For reservations call (912) 638-6732, or visit www.southeast adventure.com.