Toob, dance, and relax in the Hills

Southern Living, May 2002 by Thomas, Les

weekend

TEXAS

When the temperature climbs in Texas, spend a cool weekend in New Braunfels and Gruene.

Go with the flow. That's the best way to enjoy a weekend in the Hill Country towns of New Braunfels and Gruene, Texas. Sit back in a "toob," and let the cool water of the Guadalupe River carry you along beneath a canopy of cypress trees.

You might be tempted to spend all your time in the water-floating the Guadalupe, whizzing down the slides at Schlitterbahn Waterpark, or racing through the tube chutes on the spring-fed Comal River. But there are plenty of other ways to soak up the relaxing ambience of these two towns between San Antonio and Austin. Take a spin across the floor of the oldest continuously operating dance hall in the state. Shop for handmade Texas crafts in oldtown Gruene. Take a cave tour, and feel the cool breath of an underground pool.

Friday

On your way into town, set your radio on 92.1 FM. You might hear Bret Graham or other local musicians at KNBT performing the grassroots Americana music the station is nationally known for playing.

If you're hankering to try some outof-the-ordinary lodging, check in to the Gruene Apple Bed and Breakfast (rates range $145-$195; [830] 643-1234 or www. grueneapple.com) where each of the 14 rooms is decorated with a theme. Another choice is the Gruene Mansion Inn ($115-- $210; [830] 629-2641). Other more affordable lodging chains are located along I-35 in New Braunfels. Call in advance; they often fill up on weekends.

Cruise into the heart of Gruene (pronounced "green"), park in the free lot across the street from Gruene Hall, and tour the shops that fill vintage mercantile buildings in this tiny riverfront town. Pick up a coffee cup ($10) made from Texas clay at Buck Pottery. Or stop by Lone Star Country Goods for Texas gifts, including some that make you smile, such as the little wooden signs reading "This premises is patrolled 24 hours a day by fire ants.

If you want to enjoy the serenity of the Guadalupe before Saturday's crowds turn it into a floating block party, stop by Gruene Outfitters, and set yourself up for some fly-fishing. "The trick is to get on the river either really, really early or late in the day," says owner Ray Box. He can teach you everything you need to know to land a feisty sunfish or smallmouth bass.

For dinner, sit outdoors overlooking the river at the Gristmill River Restaurant and Bar, which is the oldest and most atmospheric restaurant in Gruene. Order the tortilla soup ($3.99) and the spicy tomatillo chicken ($8.99) with iced tea or a cold, fresh-squeezed lime margarita.

Saturday

If you're up early, start your morning with a sausage kolache or a fruit-filled fried pie at Naegelin's Bakery, in business since 1868 in downtown New Braunfels. Then head for the river.

"You won't find a better way to beat the heat," an outfitter says as he unloads rafts and inner tubes at the water's edge. Beyond an eddy at the put-in point, the water is clear enough to see the riverbed of tumbled rocks and smooth limestone 3 feet below.

On summer weekends, conga lines of "toobers" drift on languid stretches punctuated by tumbling rapids. "People who spend from three to five hours on the water seem to come out the happiest," says Zero Rivers, owner of Rockin 'R' River Rides (1-800-553-- 5628). Closer to Canyon Lake, River Valley Resort and Rio Raft Company rents tubes, inflatable canoes, and rafts. The resort also offers camping and rental cottages; call toll free 1877-746-7238. (Tip: Be sure to get a tube with a wooden bottom. It will save wear and tear on yours if the river is low.)

Dry off, and head for Pat's Place in New Braunfels for fried pickles, onion rings, and some of the best burgers in town ($2.95). For Tex-Mex, try Adobe Verde, a Gruene restaurant styled like a lively cantina.

Celebrate the end of the day with a spin around the dance floor at Gruene Hall. The oldest continuously operating dance hall in Texas, it helped launch the careers of George Strait, Lyle Lovett, Robert Earl Keen, Hal Ketchum, and other music stars.

Sunday

Kids can't get enough of Schlitterbahn, the water park that covers 65 acres along the Comal River. The six themed areas include water roller coasters, wave pools, and long floats.

If you're feeling waterlogged, go underground at Natural Bridge Caverns. The tour shows off rock formations in one of the most beautiful caves in Texas. A half-mile trail leads to subterranean rooms-one as large as a football field-180 feet down, where it's always cooler than the hot weather outside. LES THOMAS

For more information

Contact the Greater New Braunfels Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 311417, New Braunfels, TX 78131-1417; (830) 625-2385, 1-800-572-- 2626, or www.nbjumpin.com.