From the kitchen

Southern Living, Jan 2003

New Year's Ease

* Squeaky clean collard green-While some of our readers have suggested taking fresh greens for a spin in the washing machine to get rid of those annoying bits of sand and grit, we'd like to suggest a different tack. While working on the New Year's Day story on page 84, Esau Graham shared his method.

First, Esau breaks the bunches of collard greens apart. He removes any tough stalk from the center of the leaves and stacks the leaves one on top of the other. Then he rolls them up, cigar style. Next, he cuts the roll into 1 -inch slices, yielding a chiffonade, or strips, of greens. Finally, he washes the strips under cold running water.

"This way, sand can't hide in nooks and crannies of the greens," Esau explains. Now the grit-free greens are ready for cooking-and your washing machine is available for your clothes.

* Flavor for hoppin' John-We also loved Esau's quick tip for a simple bouquet garni that is used on page 86. Esau uses a coffee filter, rather than cheesecloth, to bundle herbs and garlic. The edges of the coffee filter are gathered up, tied with string, and then the bundle is dropped into the cooking liquid to inf use it with flavor. The garlic-and-herb bag is easy to remove; just pull it out by the string.

* Quick-soak method for dry beans-Many of our New Year's dishes call for dried beans or field peas. While the traditional method of cooking beans requires an overnight or 8-hour soak in water at room temperature, you can also get great results with this shortcut (it takes just over an hour): Place the beans in a large pot; add water 2 inches above the beans, and bring to a boil. Cover, remove from heat, and let stand 1 hour. Drain the beans, and continue cooking according to the recipe or package directions.

Frost-Kissed Artichokes

This time of year you may notice brownish spots on the leaves of artichokes. The industry calls these "bronze tipped" or "frost kissed They aren't very pretty, and in some cases the winter prices might be a little higher. Still, they have a sweeter, nuttier flavor than unblemished ones. The discoloration is caused by the frost that forms on the artichokes on cold winter nights. The brown disappears when the artichoke is cooked, and it turns an even green. When you see those frost-- kissed, bronze-tipped artichokes, buy several; you'll be glad you did.

Big Pots of Chill

January is the prime time for homemade chili. Bush Beans of Knoxville conducted a chili survey and found a delicious assortment of flavors. While many chili recipes contain the basic tomatoes, meat, and beans, the ingredients in the pots sometimes vary depending on the region.

Texas chili often has chunks of beef and hot chile peppers, without tomatoes and beans. It is usually served with tortillas or crackers and beans on the side. (See our recipe on page 89.)

White chili is becoming known in most areas as a healthier alternative to the traditional red. It contains white beans (such as great Northern), turkey or chicken, cumin, chicken broth, and lime juice.

Cincinnati chili is seasoned with cardamom, chocolate, cloves, coffee, and cinnamon. It is most often served over spaghetti and topped with kidney beans, onions, and shredded cheese.

Whatever your favorite, put on a big pot of chili, and call your friends. For more information visit www. bushbeans.com.

The Best of 2002

To receive a copy of all of last year's top-rated recipes, send a self-addressed, stamped, business-size envelope to Year's Best Recipes, Southern Living, RO. Box 523, Birmingham, AL 35201, or click on the Year's Best Recipes icon at southernliving.com, AOL Keyword: Southern Living.