San Antonio celebration

Southern Living, Apr 2003 by Murphy, Morgan

Come to a weeklong party that showers this Texas river town with color and culture.

With one swift clip, the leader of Fiesta San Antonio, King Antonio, reaches over and snips off the tie of the suited dignitary. His victim stands there, a sad silk stub fluttering from his shirt collar, as the crowd roars its approval and Fiesta San Antonio begins.

The butchering of neckwear, though perhaps the most popular tradition due to its symbolism of a city going casual for a week, stands as just one among hundreds of colorful hallmarks of this great American festival. Each April, San Antonio celebrates the memory of the heroes of The Alamo and the Battle of San Jacinto by throwing perhaps the grandest street party in the Western Hemisphere. Since 1891, the Fiesta has been awash with flowers, music, pageantry, tradition, and a joyful harmony of culture and diversity. You can't pick a more perfect time to visit the city. More than 150 events will be squashed into this 113th annual celebration, which this year will run from April 19 through 27.

Settling In

The secret to a fabulous trip to the Fiesta lies in picking the right place to stay. If you have friends in the city, hit them up for that spare bedroom, because hotel prices tend to rise in the month of April. Yet places to stay do abound. We opted for a room at the venerable Menger Hotel. This Texas dowager is The Alamos next-door neighbor and is central to nearly every event. Rates for a standard room during Fiesta week start at $195 a night; (210) 223-4361. Perhaps a more elegant option resides on the River Walk: La Mansion del Rio Hotel. Standard rates start at $229 a night during the Fiesta, but the hotel touts the most gorgeous rooms you'll find in the city; (210) 518-1000. Bargain hunters can snag a pad closer to the $100 mark at chain establishments such as La Quinta (rates start around $110 a night for downtown locations; 1-800-531-5900). These sell out quickly, so call early.

Flowers Everywhere

It's hard to pick which event to attend from among the 150 parades, balls, military ceremonies, art gallery displays, concerts, and expositions thrown each year. But we're suckers for a parade. If you share a similar passion, absolutely do not miss seeing at least one of the following: the River Parade, Battle of Flowers Parade, or Fiesta Flambeau Parade, which will take place this year on the 21, 25, and 26, respectively. The music, flowers, bands, floats, and mixture of Texas and Mexico will astound you. The floral displays on some of these floats make the Rose Parade look like a $10 FTD arrangement. At the Battle of Flowers Parade, San Antonio's debutante circuit gets gussied up, not in the traditional white frocks, but in magnificent jeweled gowns and elaborate headdresses. (Insider tip: Holler at the girls to show their feet. Due to all that standing, most hide their tootsies in outrageous house shoes, funky slippers, or flip-flops.)

Shopping and Dining

A smattering of balls and banquets takes place every day of the festival, but the Fiesta Del Mercado in Market Square merits an afternoon. Meals are a bargain in this outdoor arena, where the aroma of local cuisine wafts through the air. One item you won't find at your local grocery, fresh-squeezed watermelon juice, refreshes parched Fiesta visitors.

Market Square also lures thousands of shoppers. A Fiesta mustbuy remains cascarones (eggs filled with confetti). Fiesta San Antonio began with a bunch of the city's ladies pelting each other with flowers in front of The Alamo 112 years ago, so tossing a paper-filled egg at a friend's head doesn't spark the ire you might expect. In fact, an egg to the head is considered good luck.

Don't Miss

Nothing jams a kick in your step like a mariachi band. Make sure you visit the River Walk to hear the Mariachi Festival, where local bands float down the river to serenade bystanders. The allure is romantic, to be sure. Another stop captured our hearts by way of our stomachsa Night in Old San Antonio ($8 in advance, $ 10 at the gate). The event takes place in La Villita and tempts with 15 traditional dishes that sustained the original settlers.

All of the events described here are accomplished each year with 75,000 volunteers. The city's Southern spirit never fails to infect visitors like us who come for the flowers, food, and fim. MORGAN MURPHY

For more information: Contact the Fiesta San Antonio Commission, toll free 1-877-723-4378 or www. fiesta-sa.org.