Jazzy New Orleans

Southern Living, Spring 2003 by Thompson, Annette

Join the South's best music party in this Louisiana hot spot.

I had always heard that the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival was the granddaddy of open-air concerts, but a fear of bedlam made me reluctant to come. Was I ever wrong. The New Orleans Fair Grounds and Racetrack has acreage for the 12 stages plus a dozen or so other musical and heritage venues. The 11-day event's daytime setting welcomes a family crowdas well as its share of partyers.

The main draw of Jazz Fest continues to be its musical diversity. This year's acts include Bob Dylan; Crosby, Stills & Nash; Buckwheat Zydeco; Keb' Mo'; Michael Doucet & Beausoleil; Widespread Panic; and John Mayer. The music styles range from blues, brass, and zydeco to bluegrass, reggae, and Deltabilly swing. Here are my favorite ways to enjoy Jazz Fest.

Best spots for dancing: The Fais Do-Do Stage keeps feet moving with the chank-a-drank of such performers as Balfa Toujours. And no one sits down at Congo Square area when groups such as Bruce Sunpie Barnes & The Louisiana Sunspots crank up their sounds.

Favorite perennial performer: Locals line up to hear Sonny Landreth. His solos on songs such as "The U.S.S. Zydecoldsmobile" are legendary.

Where to eat: The food areas at the fairgrounds serve cooking from local restaurants and caterers. Order fried turkey po'boys from Jeanminette's Creole Kitchen in Jeanerette ($4) or crawfish enchiladas above: There's plenty of room to cut a rug at the Fais Do-Do Stage. left: Second Line Parades strut their stuff in front of the grandstand. below, left: Taj Mahal entertains thousands with his fusion of music styles. from Prejean's of Lafayette ($3 and $5).

Best insider tip: Visit the grand

stand for its bathroom facilities. Not only are they air-conditioned, but they also have running water and towels.

Don't miss: Second Line Parades strut in front of the grandstand every hour from noon to 4 p.m. Thursday through Sunday.

Where the kids hang out: Storytellers spin yarns from their Cajun front porch in the Kids Cultural Village. Nearby, children create additions to the festival's Box City.

Where to stay: We like the Hyatt Regency's hotel rooms, heated outdoor swimming pool, fitness room, and ample breakfast bar. Hyatt Regency: 500 Poydras Plaza, (504) 561-1234. Rates from $225 on Jazz Fest weekends. ANNETTE THOMPSON

New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival: Thursday, April 24-Sunday, May 4. Festival information: (504) 522-- 4786 or www.nojazzfest.com. Tickets: $20 per day adults till April 24, $25 afterward; $1.50 ages 12 and under till April 24, $2 afterward. Evening concerts range $33-$55. Order through TicketMaster at 1-800-488-5252 or www.ticketmaster.com. Parking: Limited parking available at fairgrounds for $20 per day.