Party at the preakness

Southern Living, May 2003 by Vanhooser, Cassandra M

Baltimore offers a toast to stars of the equine persuasion when they come to town seeking the second jewel of the famed Visa Triple Crown each May.

Peggy Tatarski sits in the Pimlico clubhouse during the hours leading up to the Preakness Stakes, huddled indoors to ward off an unseasonable chill. She chews the tip of her pen and studies the day's racing form, vigorously discussing the merits of each horse with her family and friends.

"There's nothing more beautiful than a horse," says the North Carolinian, who has made the trip to Baltimore for 42 straight years. "I'd come to see the horses even if I didn't bet."

The Preakness seems to speak to true horse lovers everywhere. Though Maryland has a long and storied racing tradition, people here seem to take a much more practical and relaxed approach to the sport than those in Kentucky, where the Derby is run the first week of May. Indeed, the two races are as different as the flowers that represent them.

There's no flashier bloom than the bloodred rose reserved for the Derby winner. On the other hand, the black-- eyed Susan, Maryland's state flower and the posy picked for the races at Pimlico, is very pretty yet decidedly unassuming. In fact, most of the black-- and-yellow flowers at the Preakness are faux Susans as the real ones don't even bloom until June.

Still, there's plenty of excitement around Baltimore in the days leading up to the race. A weeklong celebration features a hot-air balloon festival and a nighttime parade with floats, marching bands, and equine units.

Other regional activities are scheduled as well. Big-name jockeys tend bar at local establishments to raise money for charity. There's a crab race at Lexington Market and a sunset cruise on the Inner Harbor.

From Wednesday through Friday, early birds enjoy Sunrise at Old Hilltop, when they can stand at the rail and watch the horses' morning workouts. It's also a chance for visitors to get a guided tour of Pimlico, including the stables where the horses are primped and pampered.

As race day approaches, there's no talk of celebrities or pre-race parties. The horses are the stars at this very Maryland race. "This is what we live for," says trainer Bob Baffert, whose horses have dominated the Preakness the last few years. "This is why we buy young horses."

As the premier race nears, the gray clouds that have dampened the day part, and buttery afternoon light warms the oval at Pimlico. The bugler signals the Call to Post, and the Thoroughbreds trot to the infield to be saddled. Each boasts an entourage worthy of a rock star. When the colorfully attired jockeys are finally boosted into their saddles, the excitement rippling through the grandstand rises to a crescendo.

Today, War Emblem, the near-black colt who won the Derby, emerges victorious, running the 1 3/16-mile race in just 1:56:36. Even as the victor is draped in flowers and gifted with the coveted Woodlawn Vase, a worker rises above the chaos at Winner's Circle on a hydraulic lift to begin painting the 5-foot-wide horse-and-rider weather vane with the colors of the winning owner's silks.

It's the perfect end to a superb Maryland-style horserace.

CASSANDRA M. VANHOOSER