Food finds: Shreveport

Shreveport's devotion to good food runs as deep as it does in the state's most celebrated city, New Orleans. While the booming casinos and grand hotels along the Red River have brought many new visitors, it's the homegrown restaurants that still impress us the most. Here are a few of our favorites.

Superior's Steakhouse

The folks who Ve built Superior Grill into a mini-empire have tackled the steakhouse genre in high style. Superior's Steakhouse has a clubby, aristocratic feel, without being stuffy.

The menu of standard, upscale steakhouse fare is executed well overall. The Seared Ahi Tuna appetizer, served with mixed greens and balsamic vinegar, featured flavorful medallions of tuna drizzled with sake-chive cream sauce. The tuna tasted so mild and fresh, it would have been better without the distraction of sauce. The filet was tender and perfectly cooked, with only a rub of salt and pepper on the outside. Side dishes are big enough to share, and some were better than others. The whipped potatoes were just average, but the Braised Wild Mushrooms tasted woodsy and delicious.

The superior star of our meal was the Chocolate Molten Souffle-a small chocolate cake with a warm gooey center served with chocolate sauce and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Like most everything else we ate, it deserves the extravagant setting and was worth the price. 855 Pierremont, Suite 120; (318) 219-4123. Entrees: $18.95-$39.95.

Anthony's Steak & Seafood

While Herby K's has built itself into an institution and Superior's Steakhouse is aiming to, Anthony's has spent a decade serving comfort food and Louisiana classics in a humble atmosphere. There's nothing fancy about the restaurant's decor: wood-paneled walls, mauve tablecloths, and dark carpeting suggest that here, food comes before beauty.

We had the lunch special, a mix of well-prepared Southern staples: fried catfish, fried chicken, black-eyed peas, lima beans, and cornbread, The chicken was crispy and perfectly spiced, and the lima beans were plump and firm in a light, peppery broth. Shrimp etouffee was a reminder that in Louisiana, comfort food comes in many forms. With baby shrimp and a spicy mix of tomatoes, peppers, and onions, it was stick-to-your-bones satisfying. The dinner menu is more elaborate, with filet mignon, shrimp scampi, and fried quail.

Owner Anthony Williams was the original chef at The Cub. He's brought much of his former menu to this restaurant and kept the formula simple. Sometimes, basic is better. 7504 Mansfield Road; (318) 688-6830. Lunch entrees: $6.99; dinner entrees: $9.99-$30.99.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Jul 2003
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