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San Antonio's secret village

Southern Living, Jul 2003 by Mckenzie, Jennifer L

Visit this artsy enclave tucked away in the oldest part of town.

Sure, you know the River Walk and The Alamo, but do you know La Villita? You should.

Lesser known and often overlooked, La Villita charms visitors with its artists and craftspeople, restaurants, and tales of history. Although this quaint community has flourished since the 18th century, lots of tourists miss La Villita. That's why we adore it.

The Art of Shopping

La Villita storefronts double as studios, so shopping here is also live entertainment. Watch an artist make the item you take home. Study a glass-blower while he gently crafts a vase, Christmas tree ornament, or animal figurine at La Villita Glassblower. Or admire the steady-handed trimming of a bonsai tree at Bonsai Arbor.

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The same rules apply at Scentchips USA. The factory, where these scented bits of wax are formed in handmade molds, sits adjacent to the store. You can observe the craftspeople hard at work, then reap the benefits of their labor. Scentchips USA offers more than 70 fragrances from cinnamon to lavender and gardenia along with thousands of blends.

Villita Stained Glass will also spark your imagination. A red, white, and blue stained-glass piece in the shape of Texas is a top seller. To make a sunroom window vibrant, select a scene of bluebonnets. With almost two dozen art galleries and crafts studios, La Villita sells plenty of other items as well.

Dining at Its Best

Two of San Antonio's most historic restaurants anchor this district. When you crave a juicy Texas-size steak, legendary Little Rhein Steak House, open since 1967, is the place. (With side items separately priced, take note that meals tend to get costly.) Look around while you are in the Little Rhein, which was built in 1847. As the first two-story structure in the city, the building tells of old San Antonio.

Adjacent to the Little Rhein, The Fig Tree Restaurant offers Continental cuisine that's a bit snazzier than its neighbor's. Choose from lobster (market price), Beef Wellington ($29.95), or Chateaubriand ($29.95).

Tales of the Past

La Villita is the oldest neighborhood in San Antonio, and you'll discover the charm of yesteryear in every aspect of the village today. Enclosed and protected by a stone wall, this tiny community was developed in the mid- to late-18th century as a neighborhood adjacent to The Alamo. The area's rich past is obvious in architectural influences from Mexico, Germany, France, and, yes, Texas.

The Little Church of La Villita has been here since 1879. Still active with twice-weekly services, this treasure displays a sweet stained-glass window.

Hours of operation for most spots are posted as 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. To ensure availability, make reservations for dining. Also, calling ahead to the shops doesn't hurt, as these local artisans sometimes close early.

The secret about San Antonio's little hidden gem is out, but we figure some secrets are worth sharing.

San Antonio's secret village

Southern Living, Jul 2003 by Mckenzie, Jennifer L

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