Food finds: Durham

North Carolina's Triangle is known for the relentless rivalry between its college towns. The restaurants, too, vie for some of the region's top food finds.

The Q-Shack

Within fortune cookie-tossing distance of Pao Lim is The Q-Shack, an unpretentious new joint. When I went, it was only nine weeks old, but this brainchild of Dan Ferguson and Scott Howell (owner of Nana's as well as Pop's) is barbecue all grown up. Whole turkey, chili-rubbed sliced brisket, hand-pulled pork, and ribs are all smoked on-site by pit boss Dan.

His eyes glaze over like a smitten schoolboy's when talking about this joint endeavor. He points out that "real, honest barbecue doesn't need to hide behind a mask of sauce." If, however, you feel the need, there are two squeeze bottles to choose from-appropriately labeled "My Sauce" (Dan's) and "His Sauce" (Scott's). The former is Texas-style, tomato-based with a touch of chipotle chile. The latter is a western Carolina vinegar-based version with subtle layers of chiles and garlic.

The meal wouldn't be complete without dessert-expertly prepared by two serious pastry chefs (Kathy Edwards at Nana's and Kevin Farmer at Pop's). You have just two delicious choices, so go ahead and have both. The hot, fried fruit pies with a dusting of cinnamon and sugar and the homemade ice creams take this barbecue restaurant to another level. 2510 University Drive, Durham; (919) 402-4227. Plates: $5.50-$14.50.

Magnolia Grill

Magnolia Grill is a much-loved establishment on the Triangle's culinary scene, and Karen and Ben Barker are the driving force behind its success.

Ben is the king of savory. If it's on the menu that day, start with his slowcooked "Tender as a Mother's Love" Veal Cheeks. Braised and served with lump crab salad and a buttery golden potato puree, it is the ultimate in comfort food.

Karen, after having been nominated numerous times, won the 2003 James Beard Foundation outstanding pastry chef award. Her dressed-up dessert selections-rooted in simple, down-home flavors-change regularly but all are winners. Indulge in an upside-down banana confection with salty peanut ice cream, enjoy a Hot Chocolate Cheesecake, or feel blessed with ethereal Lemon Angel Food Bread Pudding.

At Magnolia Grill, you realize that life really is too short not to start with something sweet. 1002 Ninth Street, Durham; (919) 286-3609. Entrees: $18-$25.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Aug 2003
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