Shop a memphis legend

Southern Living, Oct 2003 by McKinney, Wanda

If you can't find it at Schwab's, you're better off without it.

Now, I ask you: Where can you get your incense supplies, size-72 overalls, and 20 different suspender varieties? There's only one answer that I know of, and that's A. Schwab on Beale Street in Memphis.

Open and in the same location since 1876, this venerable general store has served the needs of Memphis residents for generations.

As you enter, you'll notice the incense and candles just inside the door. A sign says, "The articles in this department are sold without any claims or pretense of any natural or supernatural power, affects, or revelations. Signed A. Schwab." Whew. That's a mouthful. So I ask Shirley, who's worked at Schwab's for 29 years, about the sign.

"Some customers come in every day for their mojo," she says. "They buy herbs and things for luck when they're about to go to court or if they hope to win a jackpot."

I hit the jackpot big time just wandering around Schwab's. The bargains are great, with baseball caps and American flags priced at $ 1. A buck and a half buys a pack of baseball cards, and a tambourine sets you back only $9.98.

On the balcony, I find a museum of sorts, with Prince Albert tobacco cans, an assortment of bottles, and glass cases displaying high-button shoes and other old items. Nothing is for sale on this level, but I know not to stop yet.

As I suspect, counters on the second floor hold more buyable treasures. A cake of naphtha soap costs $2, cedar eggs run $1.10 each, and a woman's cardigan sweater goes for a mere $10.

A person can buy books about Beale Street here and Elvis souvenirs too. And if you run into Eleanor Schwab Braslow-one of the third generation of owners-you can hear a bit of history. If not, seeing is still believing. WANDA MCKINNEY

A. Schwab: 163 Beale Street, Memphis, TN 38103; (901) 523-9782. Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-midnight Saturday.