State fare in Dallas

Southern Living, Oct 2003 by McGowin, Warner

York Street

From the outside, you'd never know what a gem awaits inside East Dallas' York Street. The small building has only 12 tables inside, but chef Sharon Hage has created something special. When we sat down, the waiter presented each of us with a tiny glass of sherry, small plates of olives and toasted almonds, and steamed hand towels. The appetizers were surprising and delicious. Quail Salad boasted pan-seared quail atop greens, with blood oranges, avocado cubes, and fresh mint. Another starter featured heads-on shrimp with a mild, creamy curry-and-cucumber sauce.

The entrees were equally impressive. Lamb-leg medallions arrived over tangy baby artichokes with chickpeas, mint, and aged balsamic vinegar. We also tried braised short ribs with wild mushrooms and fresh garlic shoots; the meat was fall-off-the-bone tender.

If you're not afraid of serious chocolate, end your meal with pot-decreme, a small cup of almost-melted chocolate with a dollop of whipped cream. Our waiter surprised us again with a tea box featuring thimbles of tea leaves to inspect before ordering. Elsewhere, such a show might seem fussy, but not here. 6047 Lewis Street; (214) 826-0968. Entrees: $23-$31.

You don't have to go far from Dallas' Fair Park to to find memorable meals-from down-home to upscale.

October in Dallas means one thing: the State Fair of Texas. But you can only eat so many corn dogs, taffy, and turkey drumsticks. When you hanker for something more substantial, break away from the crowds, and head to one of these nearby spots.

Matt's Rancho Martinez

This eatery in the Lakewood District specializes in good, classic Tex-Mex.

The decor verges on bland, but the food makes up for that with such rich flavors and large portions that we had to pace ourselves. Bob Armstrong Dip-a mix of queso, spiced ground beef, and guacamole topped with sour cream-ranks as Matt's signature appetizer. It's as heavy and as decadent as it sounds.

The chiles rellenos featured ground beef served over a roasted Anaheim chile, topped with either a tomatillo or tomato-based sauce, queso fresco, sour cream, raisins, and Texas pecans. The peppered ground beef added a spicy kick against the sweet raisins.

Country-style chicken-fried steak garners great scrutiny in Texas, and Matt's holds its own with some of the best. With cream gravy and black pepper, it was among the most flavorful we've had. When compared to such bold flavors, the fries and green salad seemed nothing more than distractions. 6332 La Vista Drive; (214) 823-5517. Entrees: $6.25-$ 15.95.

Paris Vendome

There is a very stylish mood at this updated French bistro in the West Village.

We started with the dark, rich broth of French onion soup, topped with melted cheese and delicious baguette croutons. Roasted tomato soup had a light cream base and the tangy zip of fresh tomato.

The fish of the fish and chips was very good-crisp on the outside and mild and buttery inside. Unfortunately, chips in this case meant homemadebut-unspectacular potato chips; we preferred the fries-light, crisp, and worth the splurge.

The star of our meal was the panseared halibut, served atop a ragout of sauteed zucchini; red, yellow, and green peppers; and onion. The halibut fillet came perfectly browned on the outside, keeping the juice inside.

We ended with an apple galette. The flaky crust and super-thin apple slices were topped with caramel sauce and caramel ice cream-a wonderful indulgence. 3699 McKinney Avenue; (469) 533-5663. Entrees: $10-$28.

WARNER MCGOWIN