Savor the flavors of Chinatown

Southern Living, Oct 2003 by Vanhooser, Cassandra M

This small but thriving Washington, D.C., neighborhood boasts many authentic Chinese restaurants.

Travel writers are required to know a little bit about a lot of things, but I'll admit that I don't know much about Chinese food. I know what I like, and I like what I know, but that hardly makes me an expert.

That's why I recruited my good friend, photographer Will Dickey, to explore D.C.'s Chinatown with me. I needed someone who could help me learn the basics and who would feel free to give an unvarnished opinion. I knew Will would do both.

Over the years, I've been impressed with my friend's knowledge of Chinese food, language, and culture. As it turns out, Will's brother-in-law, Yeow, is a native of China. "When Yeow was 3, his mom gave him a clay pot so he could start cooking," Will explains. "I've been lucky enough to develop a great understanding of Chinese food by cooking with Yeow and by exploring restaurants with him here and in Asia. We've also visited the Chinatown area in many cities."

D.C.'s Chinese Community

Washington's Chinatown is tiny when compared with other cities of its size and influence, in part because this is not a point of entry for immigrants. Until the 1930s, most Chinese residents here lived around Third and Pennsylvania Streets. When the government took their property to build the U.S. District Court, many moved to H Street, where Chinatown remains today.

"We still feel this is where our roots are, particularly Chinese Americans of Cantonese decent," says Linda Lee, whose family owns Hunan Chinatown and China Doll Gourmet. "This is our home village. And, if you want authentic Chinese cooking, I think Chinatown can offer you the best."

Small Bites

Armed with a camera and healthy appetites, Will and I set out to discover the flavors Linda promises. To our delight, several of the area restaurants serve dim sum, an a la carte Chinese tea lunch featuring bite-size morsels that are fried, baked, or steamed.

"In general, dim sum is hard to find in the South," Will notes. "You really have to search for these places, but it's worth it. The amount and variety of food you can get for the money is phenomenal."

Our favorite turns out to be Lei Garden, where they serve dim sum from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. every day. The servers bring around a pushcart loaded with dishes to sample. If you see something you like, you simply point or ask politely. At the end of the meal, the server will tally the number of dishes you have to determine the price.

Will gives high marks to his favoritesch'a-shao-pao, or steamed roast pork buns ($2.50), and shao-mai, shrimp and pork dumplings ($2.95). We both enjoy a dish called Eight Treasures Sweet Rice in Lotus Leaf ($3.95). The treasures turn out to be savory morsels including chicken, Chinese sausage, and mushrooms.

Tony Cheng's Seafood Restaurant, which also serves dim sum, offers a more refined setting. The walls are lined with photos of dignitaries posing with the owner, while lobster tanks gurgle and roast ducks hang in the kitchen window. Unfortunately, they only have their pushcart on the weekends. We sample our favorites again, but here we discover delicious Singapore-style noodles ($12.95) on the menu, which are worth another visit.

A Melting Pot

In addition to dim sum, there are a number of other Chinese dishes to sample. Linda's Hunan Chinatown features the cuisine of central China, with dishes such as Tea Smoked Duck, Hunan whole fish, Sauteed Spinach, and Szechuan-style green beans.

At Chinatown Express, a chef stands in the window twisting, pulling, and twirling dough until the mass miraculously turns into noodles. Inside, you can order these fresh noodles stir-fried or boiled in broth.

Take Two

My best advice is to take a friend to Chinatown. You'll sample more dishes and have more fun. I still carry a Chinese fortune in my wallet from our visit. It reads, "Friends are more valuable than money."

So true. CASSANDRA M. VANHOOSER

H Street, between Sixth and Eighth Streets, forms the heart of Chinatown. Parking comes at a premium, so be prepared to pay up to $ 15 in a privately controlled lot. To reach the area by Metro, get off at the Gallery Place/Chinatown stop on the red, yellow, and green lines.