Enjoy life at this Village by the Bay

Southern Living, Nov 2003 by McKenzie, Jennifer L

Affordable, close to home, and near the beach-November is the perfect time to visit Sandestin's new waterside destination.

The Village of Baytowne Wharf deserves its own zip code. Not because it's some overcrowded, space-hogging area requiring separation from the rest of the Florida Panhandle, but because this new mecca gives meaning to the phrase "self-contained."

The $170 million shopping, dining, and lodging wonderland is located within the Emerald Coast's popular resort destination Sandestin. It sprawls across 28 acres along the Choctawhatchee Bay and has the feel of an old-world fishing village with meandering walkways and succulent gardens. Unlike much of this stretch of Northwest Florida, where lodging can be expensive and often requires a three-night stay, The Village features flexible accommodations at affordable prices.

Off-season Rates

Checking in to this place is a cool breeze. From November through February 26, rates are lowest. The Village offers hotel rooms with queen or double beds ($110), one-bedroom condos ($125), one-bedroom condos with dens ($140), two-bedroom condos ($160), three-bedroom condos ($200), three-bedroom penthouses ($220), or three-bedroom townhouses ($260). Check in is at 4 p.m., and check out is at 11 a.m.

Walking Shoes Needed

To create a pedestrian-friendly area, driving is not permitted in The Village. An underground, controlled parking lot with 450 spaces houses the cars. Trams and water shuttles usher visitors from one site to the next throughout Sandestin, including the beaches and all water activities.

Chowing Down

The Village's several restaurants are located together. A favorite for most visitors is the classic New Orleans oyster shack-Acme Oyster House. The Village boasts the only Acme location outside Louisiana serving the same accolade-winning raw oysters as the original restaurant. The N'Awlins specialties-red beans and rice or seafood gumbo-make you want to slap yo' mama. Don't leave without sampling the sweet potato French fries-a twist on the classic side item.

Another festive place for seafood is the neighboring Poppy's Seafood Factory. The blackened lobster salad ($18) gets rave reviews. Same goes for the grilled crawfish tails salad ($12) and the steamed seafood bucket ($34).

If you desire something more upscale, try Bistro Bijoux. Sample snazzy New Orleans cuisine such as crawfish fritters with avocado salsa, pumpkin seed puree, and red chile remoulade ($10) or roasted veal loin chop with Creole crabmeat stuffing and a portobello mushroom demi-glace ($32).

If you want to stay in your beach clothes or even take something back to your room, order a New York-style pie at Roberto's Pizzeria. They'll even deliver, if you're staying in the resort.

Tea anyone? Enjoy a spot of tea with a friend or your children (ages 5 and older) at Magnolia & Ivy tearoom. You will be able to pick out a lovely hat or frock to wear while enjoying this genteel tradition. If you don't fancy the tea but do have a hankering for a cookie, swing by Village Bakery & Deli Cafe for something sweet.

Sandy Souvenirs

Forget those dorky T-shirts that read "My parents went to Florida and all they got me was this T-shirt." The shopping at Baytowne Wharf is cool and in no way embarrassing even for that hard-to-please teenager. Shop for kitchen gadgets or take a cooking class at Gerard's Cookery & Cajun Market. If you forgot a hat to block the sun from your eyes or want a new colorful sundress, swing by Fresh Produce.

Exquisite Interiors sells funky home accessories and gifts for even the most discerning shopper. Among the quirkier items in stock: napkin rings adorned with pheasant feathers, lampshade scarves, and beaded votive holders.

Raspberry Rhino, The Village's multimedia fine arts gallery, boasts art in every shape, size, and color. You'll spy glass animals, sculptures, bright paintings, and jewelry. The common theme here is fun.

It's easy to become obsessed with Bark Avenue. In fact, if you have a four-legged creature in your family, it's almost impossible not to. Owners John and Cindy Blackenburg stock this canine haven with bejeweled collars, gourmet treats, ceramic bowls, stylish outfits, and even breath mints.

Newcomers to Sandestin, Cindy and John are enamored by this quaint hamlet. "With the convenience of the trolleys, you never really need to get in your car," says Cindy. "We love the brick-and-pebbled walkways. Kids are safe to run around and play. The Village is its own little world." With or without its own zip code.

JENNIFER L. MCKENZIE

The Village of Baytowne Wharf: (850) 267-8150, 1-800-470-7389, or www.sandestin.com.