Jackson's holiday splendor

Southern Living, Nov 2003 by Austin, Farrah

Christmas comes early in this Mississippi town, where savvy shoppers take full advantage of the city's seasonal spirit and generosity.

With holiday bargain hunting in full swing this month, why not make a weekend out of your cash-and-carry escapades? Mistletoe Marketplace, held November 6 through 8, is a celebration of the season that encompasses shopping, dining, and entertainment. It attracts more than 35,000 people yearning not only for a sale but also good old-fashioned merriment.

Friday-Feel Like Royalty

This weekend, bypass the usual ho-hum lodging choices, and opt for a cushy place to lay your head and hang your bags after a full day of browsing. Noted for its Southern style and tasteful antique furnishings, the Fairview Inn welcomed King Juan Carlos and Queen Sophia of Spain when "The Majesty of Spain" exhibit came to town two years ago. "The queen wanted to see all the bedrooms. She stayed in The Spanish Suite," says co-owner Carol Simmons. The $265-per-night room makes everyone feel like royalty. Those on less pricey allowances can opt for The Dayton Cooper Room or The Natchez Room, which cost $115 and $ 165 respectively.

For dinner, swing by one of the area's most celebrated restaurants, The Parker House in Ridgeland (about 3 miles north of Jackson). On weekends a pianist entertains while diners enjoy such stellar entrees as the Filet Imperial Supreme, an 8-ounce cut of beef stuffed with crabmeat and topped with a sweet pepper hollandaise ($30.95). The lavender-infused creme brulee ($7) definitely sets the evening ablaze. Reservations are recommended.

Saturday-Merry at the Market

When breakfast beckons, heed the call at a snazzy spot called Julep. The biscuits are too appealing and too delicious to resist. Those who refuse to live in fear of calories should try the scrumptious shrimp and grits. If you visit a place called Julep, you simply must have one. Probably more palatable later in the afternoon, these treats are made with old-fashioned sugar syrup and real mint leaves-no store-bought mixes here.

Now it's off to the market. Held downtown in the Mississippi Trade Mart, Mistletoe Marketplace makes the city a very merry spot. Shopping starts on November 8 at 9 a.m. and goes till 5 p.m., but it's best to arrive early, as parking may be difficult. Note: You can also shop on Thursday and Friday.

More than 120 merchants from 22 states set up for the three-day extravaganza. You'll find everything from Walter Anderson prints, pottery, and clothing to Indianola pecans. Discover booths for Jackson's own Persnickety, a gift and home decor shop, as well as favorite standbys such as Olde Tyme Commissary, a local toy store.

For 23 years, this celebration of the season has been a part of the town's holiday repertoire. A product of the Junior League of Jackson, Mistletoe generates thousands of dollars for charitable fund-raising projects. For shoppers, that alone makes the experience worthwhile. For more information call 1-888-324-0027, or visit www.mistletoemarketplace.com.

When you're ready to take a break from Mistletoe, head over to Banner Hall shopping center to visit Lemuria bookstore. You're bound to find volumes of good reads here. The store carries a wide selection of Southern authors, including works by Jackson's own Eudora Welty. Children may escape to the store's kiddy corner named OZ. Relive the classic by C.S. Lewis, The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe ($5.95), with your child. Note to parents: Be sure to mark your calendar for the month of February, when author John Grisham makes his yearly appearance at the popular store.

Located in the same shopping center, Lemongrass boutique carries trendy but versatile clothing for women with an eye for style. Cozy bathrobes, chic black dresses, sleek career slacks, fun jewelry, and luxurious spa products are among the items you'll find here.

Ask anyone in Jackson about dining choices, and they'll probably mention Walker's Drive-In as a worthy stop. Once a noted spot for burgers and fries, this popular restaurant has turned uptown with its gourmet menu selection. Feast on the outstanding tamale appetizers (owner/chef Derek Emerson really takes this humble food up a couple of notches); then order the veal scaloppine with lobster ($28).

Sunday-Capital Cuisine

Stay in for breakfast, and dine with the Fairview's owners. A quintessential Mississippi gentleman, Bill Simmons loves to talk with guests. "I try to have breakfast with visitors every morning," he says. After all, this prestigious inn was once his boyhood home. The morning cuisine consists of eggs, bacon, fruit juice, French toast, waffles, and quiche.

Afterward, sneak in a stop at the Old Capitol Museum downtown. Here you'll get a glimpse of the state's history through documents and historical artifacts. It's a nice change from all the shopping at Mistletoe, not to mention a great way to bid the city goodbye. FARRAH AUSTIN