Baltimore-Beyond Crab Cakes

Southern Living, Dec 2003 by Hurst, Andria Scott

Baltimore isn't just a "crab city"; some of the South's best Italian, Irish, and regional fares thrive in the bustling multicultural neighborhoods.

James Joyce Irish Pub & Restaurant

Take a midafternoon break at James Joyce Irish Pub & Restaurant. Order a Guinness; then pause to look around. The building, designed and constructed in Ireland, was shipped to this location. You really get the feeling you've been transported.

Mussels James Gate is the house favorite (mine too). You get lots of plump mussels poached in Guinness stout, shallots, tomato, garlic, and parsley.

This is the place to try traditional Irish dishes such as Shepherd's Pie (ground beef slow-cooked with carrots and peas and topped with mashed potatoes before baking) and Irish Bacon and Cabbage served with mashed carrots and parsnips, mashed potatoes, and a mustard-parsley cream sauce.

A crowd usually gathers during mid- to late-evenings for the nightly live music. This may be just what you're looking for. No matter when you visit, don't miss the James Joyce Ice Cream; it's a combination of caramelized Irish Brown Bread and Bailey's liqueur folded into vanilla ice cream. It's wonderful; thanks, James. 616 President Street; (410) 727-5107. Entrees: $6-$18.

Gertrude's

Excite all of your senses at The Baltimore Museum of Art. After perusing the museum's visual artistry, savor the culinary art of chef John Shields at Gertrude's, his restaurant within the museum. John salutes his grandmother with the restaurant name and the region with flavors of the Chesapeake.

Single-Fry Oysters are one of the most popular items on the menu. They're hefty, moist morsels in a thin, crisp cornmeal coating. be warned: Keep your eye on your plate, your dining companions will want you to share.

I like the Build Your Own section of the menu because even picky eaters can find something they like by designing their meals. The order includes an entree, sauce, and two sides for $ 16 to $28.

On Tuesdays, the restaurant becomes Gertie's Cafe from 5 to 9 p.m. with a menu offering 10 entrees for $10 each. Portobella Crab Imperial and Southeast Asian Vegetable Curry are two favorites. My Cornmeal-Encrusted Catfish was especially good, still sizzling from the heat when it reached the table. The evenly crisp crust on the hot, flaky fish is a natural winner. It's wise to make reservations here. 10 Art Museum Drive; (410) 889-3399. Entrees: $ll-$28. ANDRIA SCOTT HURST