Crab Houses Of the Chesapeake

Southern Living, Apr 2004 by Vanhooser, Cassandra M

Cookbook author Whitey Schmidt introduces our writer to the joys of consuming this delicacy.

Aunch or dinner of steamed crabs is a celebration any day of the week," says Maryland-based cookbook author Whitey Schmidt. he licks his chops and rubs his hands together in anticipation as a waitress spreads a dozen bright red, hard-shell crabs on the picnic table.

Learning From a Pro

For neophytes, learning to eat steamed crabs can be daunting. I have witnessed diners up to their elbows in crab shells at restaurants around the Chesapeake Bay, but I always felt I needed someone to teach me the proper way to eat hard-shell crabs before I actually ordered them in public.

So I recruited Whitey, an author of cookbooks and travel guides, to help me. he has spent a lifetime haunting the waterfronts of the Chesapeake, meeting the watermen who fish for crabs and dining at the shacks that serve them. In fact, he claims to have eaten in more than 275 crab houses in the three states that embrace the bay-Virginia, Maryland, and Delaware.

A Crash Course in Crabs

Whitey and I meet for the first time on a sunny Saturday. We set out on our journey with a map, a full tank of gas, and adventure in our hearts. He refuses to name his favorite crab houses, choosing instead to take me to places he says will be memorable.

For our first stop, we exit U.S. 50 onto Kent Island and wind through the countryside to Stevensville, Maryland. That's where we find Kentmorr Restaurant & Crab House, a white building with a red roof that looks more like a lighthouse than a shack.

When we settle on a patio seat with a water view, the waitress covers a red wooden picnic table with thick brown paper, then staples the paper to the wood. Ceiling fans whirl overhead, kicking up a breeze as we sip cold drinks and relax.

"There are hundreds of crab houses on the Chesapeake, so it's hard to pick a favorite," Whitey tells me. "The number one criterion I look for is 'cooked to order.'You want the crabs pulled from the water and popped in the pot."

As instructed, I ask if the crabs are cooked to order. The server assures me they are, so we settle in and wait.

"If they say they're cooking them to order and they bring them out in 4 ½ minutes, send them back and tell them that's not what you want," Whitey says, a note of seriousness in his voice. "It takes 18 to 20 minutes to cook them, depending on the type of system the crab house uses. Half the fun is having a cold drink and waiting."

When they finally arrive almost a half hour later, the crabs are piping hot and perfect. The moist, sweet morsels melt in my mouth.

The Odyssey Continues

Next, we amble though the picturesque farmland that characterizes the Delmarva Peninsula. When we reach Leipsic, Delaware, a tiny speck of a town, my interest is piqued. We turn onto Front Street and head to Sambo's Tavern on the Leipsic River.

We're greeted by photographs of NASCAR greats on the walls. Large windows line the back room, giving diners a view of the winding river. The tables are covered in old newsprint. In the middle sits a roll of white paper towels. "It's just so funky," Whitey says with a laugh. "Where else do you find newspaper used as a tablecloth?"

The fries here are sprinkled with Old Bay seasoning, yet the crabs come out covered with a delicious, thick salty crust. As we drive away, we see boats docking to unload more baskets of crabs they just pulled from the Delaware Bay.

In the Country

The Red Roost, a place as noted for its fried chicken as for its crabs, is our third and final stop. "I like it because it's out in the middle of the boonies," Whitey crows as we turn in to the parking lot in Whitehaven, Maryland, after numerous miscues. "You're 30 miles from the biggest city. That's what makes it a good place. Even when you get lost, you still want to come back."

This crab house turns out to be a low-slung building that reveals its past as a chicken house (hence the name). Calico curtains with fat yellow hens dress the windows. The crabs come straight from the Wicomico River, just outside the door. They are covered with Old Bay seasoning and served on basket tops. If you want to come by boat, just call. They'll come get you in a pickup truck.

Learning With a Full Belly

After a day of feasting, I'm so full I can hardly button my jeans, but I learn a lot from Whitey. Here's the summary. Only eat freshly steamed crabs. The crab houses with the most character are in the middle of nowhere. Wear pants with an elastic waist.

CASSANDRA M. VANHOOSER

Whitey Schmidt is the author of nine books, including The Crab Cookbook. His newest release is The Chesapeake Bay Oyster Cookbook. For more information call 1-888-876-3767.

READY TO EAT

* Kentmorr Restaurant & Crab House: 910 Kentmorr Road, Stevensville, MD 21666; (410) 643-2263 or www.kentmorr.com.

* Sambo's Tavern: 283 Front Street, Leipsic, DE 19901. Note: Sambo's opens for the season on April 1.

* The Red Roost: 2670 Clara Road, Whitehaven, MD 21856; (410)546-5443.