South Goes Down to the Sea, The

Southern Living, Spring 2004 by Lingo, Karen

From shell-strewn beaches to fun-filled cities, water's edge holds the promise of relaxation, recreation, and discovery.

The Southern coast wears a thousand faces. It's a secluded beach washed by waves rolling in like liquid silver, a sophisticated port city welcoming the world, a quaint little fishing village, and a lively teen hangout that never grows old.

BEST OF DELAWARE

* Beaches: Like fraternal twins, two coastal towns share characteristics yet have different personalities. Bethany Beach is quiet, while Rehoboth plays to the resort crowd.Visit www.bethanyfenwick.org and www.beach-fun.com.

* Birding: Two of the best sites in the Mid-Atlantic region lie on the western shore of Delaware Bay. Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge near Smyrna, (302) 653-6872; Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge near Milton, (302) 684-8419.

MARYLAND'S BEACH FAIR

From sand to seafood, Ocean City packs a powerful vacation punch.

* On the boardwalk: Stroll the 3-mile-long boardwalk, where you can ride the Tidal Wave Roller Coaster, and savor an ice-cream cone from Dumser's Dairyland.

* Just for two: Get cozy at the Lighthouse Club hotel, a romantic 23-room inn. Ask for a room with a bay view; 1-888-371-5400 or www.fagers.com.

* For more: 1-800-626-2326.

WINDOWS ON THE CHESAPEAKE

The largest estuary in the United States, the Chesapeake Bay stretches for some 200 miles, with lovely towns and lively cities lining its shores.

* Annapolis: Don't miss Maryland's State House, the oldest state capitol building in continuous legislative use in the country. For more: www.visitannapolis.org.

* Baltimore: Begin with the National Aquarium at the Inner Harbor; then shop at Harborplace. Hop aboard a water taxi to Fort McHenry, or take in a game at Oriole Park at Caniden Yards. For dinner, head to Aldo's Ristorante Italiano in Little Italy. For more: toll free 1-877-225-8466 or www.baltimore.org.

* Hampton Roads area: Norfolk shares a maritime history with five other cities. Try the interactive exhibits at Nauticus, The National Maritime Center. Slip over to the Mariners'Museum in Newport News; then soak up some sun along the 3-mile boardwalk in Virginia Beach. For more: Norfolk Convention & Visitors Bureau, 1-800-368-3097 or www.norfolkcvb.com; Newport News Visitor Center, 1-888-493-7386 or www.newport-news.org;Virginia Beach Visitor Information Center, 1-800-822-3224 orwww.vbfun.com.

GET AWAY To THE OUTER BANKS

North Carolina's barrier islands encompass a national seashore and a score of towns to explore.

* Cape Natteras National Seashore: see 208-foot-high Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, the tallest brick beacon in the country.

* Take the ferry: Toll ferries connect Cedar Island/Swan Quarter on the mainland to Ocracoke. A free ferry links Ocracoke and Hatteras. For schedules and fees, call 1-800-2933779, or visit www.ncferry.org.

* For more: toll free 1-877-629-4386 or www.outerbanks.org.

CAROLINA COASTAL

From the bottom of the Outer Banks southward, towns and resort communities of North and South Carolina extend from one beach to another.

* The Crystal Coast: Stroll the waterfronts of Beaufort and Morehead City, North Carolina. Don't miss Beaufort's North Carolina Maritime Museum and Watercraft Center. For more: 1800-786-6962 or www.sunnync.com.

* Cape Fear Coast: Base yourself in Wilmington, on the Cape Fear River. Visit the battleship U.S.S. North Carolina, fishing piers at Carolina Beach and Kure Beach, and the world under glass at the North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher, for more: 1-800-222-4757 or www.cape-fear.nc.us.

* South Brunswick Islands: Check out this sandy crescent freckled by beach towns. Stop by the North Carolina Maritime Museum, at Southport. Dine on seafood at restaurants in Calabash. For a special getaway, take the ferry to Bald Head Island. For more: 1-800426-6644 or www.ncbrunswick.com.

* The Grand Strand: Anchored by Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, these 60 miles of sand boast more golf courses than you can play in a month's worth of tee times. Teens will love The Pavilion with its rides and games. Don't miss the seafood restaurants in Murrells Inlet (try Capt. Dave's Dockside), outdoor sculpture at Brookgreen Gardens, and the Pawleys Island Original Hammock Shop. For more: Myrtle Beach Area Chamber of Commerce, 1-800-3563016 orwww.myrtlebeachinfo.com.

CHARMING CHARLESTON

Founded in 1670, Charleston has turned its history into an alluring blend of romance and culture.

* The Historic District: Narrow cobblestone streets wind past magnificent old homes and tucked-away gardens. Explore on foot, or take a carriage tour from the Old City Market.

* Don't miss: The porch swings at Waterfront Park; the South Carolina Aquarium; and plantations (especially Magnolia and Middleton Place) along the Ashley River.

* Shopping: Look for traditional sweetgrass baskets in Old City Market. For antiques, upscale clothing, and specialty shopping, head to King Street.

* For more: 1-800-868-8118 or www. charlestonc vb. com.

SEA ISLAND RESORTS

Lovely ladies of the South Carolina coast include Wild Dunes Resort on Isle of Palms, www.wilddunes.com; Kiawah Island Golf Resort, 1-800-654-2924 or www.kiawahresort.com; Seabrook Island, 1-800-845-2475 or www.discoverseabrook.com; and the resorts on Hilton Head Island, www.hiltonheadisland.org.