Baltimore's Best Neighborhood

Southern Living, Jul 2004 by McGowin, Warner

Find the city's most memorable shopping and dining in historic Fell's Point.

Charm City's Inner Harbor features enough mega-stores, restaurants, and maritime attractions to keep you busy for a week. But don't let that stop you from exploring Fell's Point, one of Baltimore's most vibrant neighborhoods. It's a great place to spend a summer day.

On the Waterfront

Start your morning with breakfast or brunch at Blue Moon Cafe, a fun, casual restaurant serving traditional as well as Latin-inspired breakfasts. The delicious huevos rancheros, topped with spicy chorizo, eggs, and chile verde, comes with homemade, crispy hash browns ($6.95).

Now that you're fortified and caffeinated, delve into Broadway Market, just south of Fleet Street. "Experience" is the operative word: The historic market hosts a dizzying array of seafood, flowers, wines, cheeses, meats, and more.

Once you've walked through the market, you're back on Broadway, headed toward the historic docks that date to the 18th century. Shopping, more than sailing, is the draw in today's Fell's Point, and there's plenty of it. Eclectic Elements sells unique furniture and global accessories ranging from high-end to downright cheap. Across the street, check out Southern Accent and Petticoat Tea Room for bath products, Provence tablecloths, and ladies-who-lunch fare.

Thames Time

Make your way down to Thames Street, which runs alongside the harbor, to John Steven Ltd. The brick courtyard makes the perfect spot to enjoy quintessential Chesapeake seafood. We particularly like the steamed shrimp, served in a wooden bowl with herb butter and cocktail sauce.

If you still have the shopping bug, check out Su Casa, a couple blocks down Thames. Funky but not over the top, Su Casa sells everything from Oriental-inspired rugs to vases, leather furniture, and French poster art.

Step outside Su Casa, and you're right at the water's edge. In the distance, the supersize Inner Harbor buzzes. Here in Fell's Point, everything's on a smaller scale. It's the reward that's just as big. WARNER MCGOWIN

Blue Moon Cafe: 1621 Aliceanna Street; (410) 522-3940. Broadway Market: South Broadway between Fleet and Lancaster Streets. Eclectic Elements: 813 South Broadway; (410) 675-5105. Southern Accent and Petticoat Tea Room: 814 South Broadway; (410) 342-7883. John Steven Ltd.: 1800 Thames Street; (410) 327-5561. Su Casa: 901 South Bond Street; (410) 522-7010.