Heart of Baltimore, The

Southern Living, Oct 2004 by Vanhooser, Cassandra M

I sprint up the 228 steps to the top of Baltimore's Washington Monument to witness what some consider the best view in the city. It was worth the effort. From here I get a wonderful feel for the layout of the Mount Vernon Cultural District.

This lovely Baltimore neighborhood holds the city's greatest cultural and architectural treasures. Its boundaries are Eutaw Street to the east, Calvert to the west, Biddle to the north, and Lexington to the south. The Washington Monument sits at the center of this tiny universe.

To help visitors get acquainted with the area, Lisa Kier, executive director of the Mount Vernon Cultural District, and her volunteers offer a guided walking tour each Saturday at 10 a.m. A self-guided tour brochure, available in local gift shops, includes much of the same information. Here's an overview of what the neighborhood offers.

* The Washington Monument: Every tour, no matter who guides it, begins with the Washington Monument. Started in 1816 and finished in 1829, it was the first built to honor the former President. The one in D.C. wasn't completed until 1884.

* 100 years of architecture: By the 183Os, wealthy Baltimoreans had started to buy lots around the monument. The houses and buildings range from the elegantly simple Greek Revival style to the exuberant Gothic style.

* A wealth of cultural institutions: Mount Vernon is considered the cultural center of Baltimore. Influential neighbors include the Peabody Conservatory, which offers wonderful concerts; The Walters Art Museum, showcasing 55 centuries of art; and the Center Stage theater, an acclaimed regional theater.

* Three splendid libraries: "The stack room at the Peabody Library is widely considered the most beautiful room in Baltimore," Lisa observes. Visitors can also tour (or use) the Enoch Pratt Free Library or the Maryland Historical Society library.

* Glorious churches: "We have 11 of the most architecturally distinctive church buildings that you can imagine," Lisa boasts. "Each individually is just splendid, but together, they're astonishing." Visitors should not miss the Basilica of the Assumption, the first Roman Catholic Church in the U.S.

* Shopping and dining: Visitors find a surprisingly different and interesting mix of stores. Restaurants offer cuisines that span the globe. Some favorites include the Tuscan dishes at The Brass Elephant and the Afghan offerings at The Helmand.

CASSANDRA M. VANHOOSER

For more information: Contact the Mount Vernon Cultural District, 217 North Charles Street, Suite 100, Baltimore, MD 21201-4101; (410) 244-1030 or www.mvcd.org.