Escape to the Mountains

Southern Living, Oct 2004 by Lingo, Karen

Vibrant hues of red, orange, and yellow signal the perfect time to visit southern West Virginia.

TRAVEL

IN THE SOUTH

When the air turns crisp, I head for the hills. My favorite place to watch the season change lies in the Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia, especially around Beckley.

A journey through the area this time of year summons a cherished memory. When I was young, we heated our home with a coalburning stove. Occasionally, my mother would take a few lumps of coal and pour over them a mixture of water, liquid laundry bluing, ammonia, and salt, then add a few drops of red and yellow food coloring. The next morning we'd awaken to a garden of multihued crystals growing on the coal. It was magic, just like an Allegheny autumn.

Highways to Heaven

Between Charleston and Beckley, I-64/I-77 sweeps through the mountain folds and into a canyon of seasonal color. It seems a shame there's no place to pull off and just enjoy nature's show, but the ride itself makes up for that engineering omission.

For a more leisurely drive, I like to head out of Beckley on State 41 and follow it northeast across the New River Gorge National River to Babcock State Park. The main reason to visit the park is Glade Creek Grist Mill. Although it was created less than 30 years ago by using parts from several old mills across the state, it appears to have been here forever.

Just beyond Babcock State Park, I pick up U.S. 60, follow it west to U.S. 19, and turn left. This is the best part of the trip, because U.S. 19 crosses the New River Gorge Bridge. On the third Saturday of every October (this year the 16th), part of the bridge is closed to traffic for Bridge Day. It's the only time pedestrians are allowed to walk across and marvel at the view of the gorge 876 feet below.

At Canyon Rim Visitor Center, perched on the northeastern side of the gorge, overlooks provide views of the bridge and the river. For a closer look, I take County 82 down into the chasm. The oneway switchback weaves beneath the bridge several times, crosses the river, and climbs back up the other side.

Treasures at Tamarack

All the colors of West Virginia shine at Tamarack, a one-stop extravaganza of arts, crafts, and food. Set just off I-64/I-77 at Exit 45 in Beckley, the building is hard to miss. Offerings include quilts, pottery, baskets, glassware, and other handmade items.

The food court is managed by The Greenbrier, one of the South's best resorts. On my last visit, I treated myself to delicious pan-fried rainbow trout ($7.25 for one fillet, $10.25 for two).

Sleeping In

Several chains offer accommodations just off the interstate in Beckley. The Hampton Inn is both comfortable and convenient. Rates range $60-$99; (304) 252-2121 or 1-800-426-7866.

If you're looking for lodging with more amenities, settle into Glade Springs Hotel and Conference Resort. Overnight rates begin at $128; 1-800-634-5233 or www.gladesprings.com.

For more information: Contact the Southern West Virginia Convention & Visitors Bureau, (304) 252-2244, 1-800-847-4898, or www.visitwv.com.