Fried Chicken: An American Story

Southern Living, Nov 2004 by Florio, Donna

Fried Chicken: An American Story BY JOHN T. EDGE (G.P. PUTNAM'S SONS, $18.95)

If you think that fried chicken is a uniquely Southern food, prepare to have your view challenged by one of the region's reigning food experts. In this brief, highly readable volume, John T. Edge takes the reader across the country on his quest for great fried chicken.

In Los Angeles, the author visits Roscoe's Chicken and Waffles, hoping to gain more history of the dish. He sits down with Serbian immigrants who favor crumb-crusted fried in Barberton, Ohio. At Jacques-Imos in New Orleans, he hears, from the man himself, the story of legendary Creole chef Austin Leslie.

John T. shares tales as easily as he might pass a plate of chicken, with results that are just as tasty. After a few pages, you'll be ready to head for the nearest chicken joint or fry up a batch from one of the 17 recipes.

DONNA FLORIO