Alluring Annapolis

Southern Living, Dec 2004 by Latham, Tanner C

The historic district of Maryland's capital puts on her best around the holidays.

The Chesapeake breeze rolls in from the harbor and rustles the tiny twinkling lights that enliven the leafless trees. It quickens the steps of strolling shoppers, with tightened scarves and rosy cheeks, as they hunt for holiday gifts. The classically decorated shops and restaurants lining the historic district's brick-paved streets reflect an elegance that makes a holiday weekend getaway a true gift.

Friday-Down on Main Street

For a taste of the history as you come into town, warm up with afternoon tea ($16 per person, served until 5 p.m.) at Reynold's Tavern on Church Circle, which has welcomed guests since 1747.

Before exploring the rest of the historic district, you'll want to unload and check your bags. If this is a very special trip, we recommend splurging on The Annapolis Inn, a circa 1762 Georgian and Greek Revival townhouse with three guest suites. Innkeepers Alexander De Vivo and Joseph Lespier serve a three-course, gourmet breakfast every morning in the dining room, which-in keeping with the design of the rest of the house-is lavishly decorated in French, Italian, and English period furnishings. Rates start at $250 during the week and $295 on the weekends; (410) 2955200 or www.annapolisinn.com.

A more affordable option is the Loews Hotel, a comfortable chain also in the historic district. Rates start at $119; (410) 263-7777 or www. loewshotels.com.

Being a pedestrian in this section of Annapolis is important because even though curbside parking is free during the month of December, the slots can be very scarce. A few parking decks flank the district; look for the one on German Street, one block west of Main Street, where you'll be shopping this afternoon.

One of our favorite shops in all of historic Annapolis is Avoca Handweavers. This is the only stateside outlet of a company that originated in Ireland. All the scarves and other accessories are handmade, imported, and as soft to the touch as they look.

Take a spin through Interior Concepts, Inc., a stop that this time of year specializes in decorative Christmas items such as rocking horse-andtoy soldier tree ornaments.

For dinner, make reservations at O'Learys Seafood Restaurant ([410] 263-0884) in the community of Eastport. The only things better than the atmosphere in this upscale, waterfront eatery are the succulent jumbo lump Maryland crab cakes ($33).

Saturday-Shopping and Saluting

If breakfast is not part of your accommodations, try Chick & Ruth's Delly, a popular mom-and-pop-style cafe that's held a place on Main Street since the 1960s. You can't go wrong with the pancakes ($3.95), which are almost as big as serving platters.

Make your way a few streets over to chic Maryland Avenue, which distinguishes itself from Main by hosting higher-end boutiques. Duck into Posh of Annapolis, a one-room shop filled with an eclectic mix of home decor and gift items. Just down the street, find The Wise Willow, a children's bookstore and toy shop.

While you're in this neighborhood, tour the William Paca House & Garden, a beautifully restored 1765 Georgian mansion. The gardens are prettier in the spring, but the rooms are decorated for the holidays as they would have been during the home's past eras.

Stop in for lunch at Galway Bay, a traditional Irish restaurant and pub. You can't go wrong with The Irish Reuben ($8.99), served with a tangy Irish whiskey-mustard dressing.

A trip to Annapolis is incomplete without a stroll onto the United States Naval Academy campus, a city landmark. The campus is open to the public, but a picture ID for ages 16 and above is necessary. If you're pushed for time, at least make it to the lower level of the United States Naval Academy Museum (free admission), where the "Gallery of Ships" exhibit displays one of the world's finest collections of warship models.

For dinner, drive back to Eastport to The Wild Orchid Café, located on Bay Ridge Avenue. Order from the prix fixe menu, which includes an appetizer, homemade breads, soup, salad, entrée, and dessert ($37).

Sunday-A Last Feel of History

Enjoy a service this morning in the United States Naval Academy Chapel (9:30 a.m. Catholic Mass, 11 a.m. Protestant service). The 6,710-pipe organ carries "The Navy Hymn" through this hallowed structure that celebrated its centennial this year.

Head back to State Circle for the Sunday Champagne Brunch at Harry Brownes. If you have a hard time choosing from the menu (we liked the classic eggs Benedict, $10.95), the brunch buffet ($ 16), with a wealth of seasonal mid-morning fare, is your best bet. With dark woods dominating the decor, the restaurant embodies the merging of the classic and contemporary, a feeling that permeates much of this district. It's a taste you'll carry with you long after you head home.

TANNER C. LATHAM

For more information

Contact the Annapolis & Anne Arundel County Conference & Visitors Bureau, 26 West Street, Annapolis, MD 21401; 1-888-302-2852 or www.visit-annapolis.org.