Charleston's Secret Season

Southern Living, Jan 2005 by Stith, Mark G

Now's a great time to visit. The crowds are similar, the rates are cheaper, and the weather is just fine.

TRAVEL

IN THE SOUTH

The city looks especially inviting this time of year. Camellias bloom against wrought iron fences and gates in downtown Charleston's historic district. Window boxes filled with the lovely pastels and fresh greens of soft pansies, gauzelike kale, and frilly parsley border the cobblestone streets.

In January, you'll find downtown shops filled with bargains, cool restaurants serving great meals, and attractions such as the South Carolina Aquarium free of long lines. So let us introduce you to some new finds as well as a fresh look at old favorites. This is when we love Charleston the most.

Cool Shops

The southern end of King Street has long been a favorite destination for Charleston shoppers. But the northern end, known as the Upper King Street Design District, is undergoing a revival. You'll be a cool customer in places such as Putumayo ([843] 958-0900), a stylish women's fashion boutique on Upper King. Custom-designed skirts and dresses start at around $78. Across the street sits a modern home furnishings store called Dwelling ([843] 723-9699). Sofas average $2,500, and less expensive items include picture frames for $30.

Another chic home furnishings shop, Maine Cottage ([843] 722-7188), shows off coastal-themed decor. And be sure to stop by Magar Hatworks ([843] 577-7740), where milliner Leigh Magar fashions handmade hats in her studio.

Foods for Thought

Two places top our breakfast and lunch lists. The Bookstore Café ([843] 720-8843), at the corner of King and Hutson Streets, presents bodacious breakfasts at reasonable prices. Best on the menu are the Island Potato Casseroles, with combinations such as grilled onions, peppers, mushrooms, and scrambled eggs ($8.25).

Another favorite, Gaulart & Maliclet Cafe Restaurant ([843] 577-9797), at 98 Broad Street, serves delicious soup-and-sandwich combinations; each is paired with a glass of French wine. When we visited, we enjoyed the special of the day, a croque monsieur (ham and cheese on sourdough bread) with zesty, chilled cucumber soup; fruit cup; and a glass of wine for just $7.30.

Tanks a Lot to the Aquarium

The South Carolina Aquarium ([843] 720-1990) dazzles visitors with an array of aquatic environments replicating those found across the statefrom the mountains to the beach. Favorite stops here are the touch tank and the Great Ocean Tank, where scuba divers feed the saltwater fish and talk by aquatic intercom to the crowd.

Dinner and a Divine Bed

After all this shopping and wandering, you'll need a satisfying meal and a place to rest. At the Wentworm Mansion (1-888-466-1886 or www.wentworthmansion.com), rates start at $225 during low season (January, February, July, and August), when you'll save as much as $100 on a room. This beautifully restored home boasts the ultimate in luxury furnishings. Make your way to the cupola for an amazing view that silhouettes the Charleston skyline against the setting sun.

Then head to the carriage house, where a fabulous dinner awaits you at Circa 1886 ([843] 853-7828). We loved the crab cakes appetizer, topped with razor-thin onion straws ($9). Also marvelous were the seared sea scallops ($26) and the hazelnut tart ($11).

Another great stay paired with a fine restaurant is The Mills House Hotel on Meeting Street in the historic district (rates range $99-$369; 1-800-874-9600 or www.millshouse.com). You'll enjoy their restaurant, The Barbadoes Room, which features Lowcountry fare such as shrimp and grits, flounder, and red snapper (entrées range $19-$32).

If the weather's nice, you can sit out on the courtyard. Sit outdoors in January? Although unbelievable in most places, that's just one of the many ways the city surprises guests who visit in late winter. When you factor in the smaller crowds, January just might rival any month for top honors.

For more information: Contact the Charleston Area Convention & Visitors Bureau, 1 -800-868-8118 or www.charlestoncvb.com, or stop in at their visitors center, 375 Meeting Street, which is open 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.