Jacksonville's Coastal Charm

Southern Living, Feb 2005 by Austin, Farrah

Let this seaport city-chock-full of shopping, museums, and chic restaurants-wash away your weekend woes.

Jacksonville offers more than just the Super Bowl this time of year. Blessed with beautiful beaches and a seamless river that flows through downtown, this city harbors a host of activities for travelers who welcome surprises. A contemporary mix of cosmopolitan experiences and low-key activities appeases travelers with differing tastes. You'll find the shabby and the chic standing side by side. Both options add to Jacksonville's coastal charm and the promise of one memorable weekend.

Friday Enchantment

Check in to The Inn at Oak Street, one of the area's most stylish and accommodating bed-and-breakfasts. The restored 1902 home sits in the historic Riverside section of town. Comfortably plush and filled with bold prints and vibrant color schemes, the inn embodies owners Tina Musico and Robert Eagle's eye for design detail.

Ask for Hemingway's Hideaway ($140 to $155), which opens to a balcony. It's an impressive room done in mahogany furnishings, Audubon green walls, and exposed brick; (904) 379-5525 or www.innatoakstreet.com.

Before you nap, though, head into the Avondale community on St. Johns Avenue for lunch at Biscottis. Beautiful gourmet pizzas, specialty sandwiches, and dreamy desserts are this restaurant's calling card. On sunny days, sit outside while lunching on the Pizza Rustica ($7.95), which comes topped with a combination of prosciutto, garlic, and goat cheese.

At Biscottis you're within walking distance of Avondale's upscale boutique shops. Stop by Woodward Antiques and Accessories for beautiful brooches ($40 to $100) and antique transferware. Farther down lies Èxito, where you'll discover a variety of home furnishings, including trendy lamps and decorative pillows. The vibrant showcase in the store's display window will entice you inside in no time.

Ladies who crave fan apparel should take a peek inside Petal. It's a colorful clothing store filled with adorable tees, feminine blouses, and girlie dresses.

For another set of shops that's altogether different, stop by the eclectic Five Points. Shoppers swoon over women's vintage stores such as Violet. Even if you don't have much to spend, Violet carries $20 purchases that make you look like a million bucks. Delicate gloves, sassy shoes, and playful party dresses fill this store's vintage closet.

When it's time to dine, make the drive to Mandarin, a community 12 miles away and home to Clark's Fish Camp. Clark's encompasses all that is kooky about fish camps-shrimp netting on the walls and a creek in the back-but the food is as good as it is varied. Patrons may order fried ostrich along with conch fritters and fresh alligator meat. Those who prefer their dinner more mild than wild should try the baked flounder stuffed with crabmeat ($12.95).

Sublime Saturday

Get up early for breakfast at The Fox Restaurant in Avondale on St. Johns Avenue. Be there by 7 a.m. as the place fills up by 8. Try the Ortega Omelet ($5.95), which comes with spicy chorizo sausage, tomatoes, onions, black beans, cheese, and salsa.

Then head outdoors to experience the small wonders of Jacksonville's coastline. Start your trip at Kayak Amelia. The marsh trip, a great option for families, takes you through the area's wetlands on a three-hour route. The cost is $55 per person; 1-888-305-2925. Note: Because you're likely to get a little wet, bring a change of pants for the ride back.

When it's time for lunch, try Al's Pizza near Avondale, where you can get a large slice of New York-style pizza with pepperoni for $1.80.

Afterward, stop by the Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens. As the largest fine arts museum in northeast Florida, this venue does an excellent job of bringing worldwide classical paintings and artifacts to its patrons.

Squeeze in at least one more afternoon activity with a jaunt to the Jacksonville Zoo. They plan to open five new exhibits in the next five years. The first, "Range of the Jaguar," is a 41Aacre display that details the life of the jaguar in its natural habitats. Don't miss the elevated boardwalks, where guests look down on African wildlife.

Now it's time to answer those grumbling stomachs by heading over to San Marco to visit two of our favorite food stops. Duck in to Peterbrooke Chocolatier first, and pick up some of the best chocolate-covered popcorn on the planet.

Save your popcorn for the trip home, and end the day at Bistro AIX (pronounced "X"). Named for the French town Aix-en-Provence, the bistro sits on stylish San Marco Boulevard, a strip that also houses many designer shops. An indulgence worth the time, Bistro AIX features Mediterraneaninspired cuisine. Even the decor, brooding and sophisticated like something out of a Gothic French cathedral, adds passion to your palate.

Don't miss their decadent Blood Orange Martini rimmed with sugar. Start with the Bruschetta Trio ($9), which comes with three types of bread-one topped with white bean puree; another with tomatoes, garlic, and basil; and a third with peppers, onions, and goat cheese. For your entrée, try the grilled tuna over whipped potatoes with baby spinach, lemongarlic butter, and chive oil ($23).