Come to Mississippi's Coast

Southern Living, Mar 2005 by Austin, Farrah

Let a breeze blow you to the banks of Ocean Springs for a weekend of small-town ambience and spring color.

U.S. 90 leads the way to one of the most picturesque arts communities in the coastal South. Set against a backdrop of lush marshlands and playful beaches, Ocean Springs is just a few miles away from the casinos yet feels like another universe of relaxed living.

Friday-Exploring Washington Avenue

Gulf Hills hotel & Conference Center is the largest independent accommodations in town. The rooms have been redone in vibrant florals, soft greens, and sunny yellows. You'll find them simple yet tasteful and worth the price. An Olympic-size pool and 18-hole championship golf course complete the hotel's repertoire. Rates range from $89 to $129, including a Continental breakfast; toll-free 1-866-875-4211 or www.gulfhillshotel.com.

When you're ready to appease your appetite, Burger Burger stacks up in a big way. Their thick, crispy fried onion rings pair nicely with the house specialty. Called the Burger Burger meal, it's more like a po'boy topped with cheese, special gravy, and marinated hamburger meat with onions ($4.95). It's quite possibly one of the best burgers in the business.

Cute shops line Washington Avenue and Government Street. Make your first stop Miner's Toy Store. Old-fashioned jack-in-the-boxes and Madame Alexander dolls make children merry here. At On the Menu-A Kitchen Gallery, culinary treasures, from utensils to funky cooking gadgets and tableware, stock the shelves. Then stop by Bayou Belle, a ladies apparel store with moderately priced shoes, purses, and jewelry.

End your day at Al Fresco Italian Bistro. On warm nights, sit on the patio near the wall fountain that spits fire. To set your evening all the more ablaze, try the Black and Bleu Pasta ($12.95) with the Bella Sera house wine.

Saturday-Celebrating Nature

If you'd rather skip the Continental breakfast at Gulf Hills, we recommend Phoenicia Gourmet on Government Street. Their omelet Florentine ($7.95) concocted with spinach, artichoke bottoms, supreme sauce, and hollandaise sauce is simply delicious.

Spring's splendor awakens your senses at Courtney Farms Farmer's Market. Seasonal flowers, herbs, bedding plants, and fresh vegetables stock this small market.

At the Walter Anderson Museum of Art, visitors experience the wonders of the area's natural habitats via the paintings by the artist who drew much of his inspiration from the coast.

For lunch try Martha's Tea Room, where all the breads are homemade. Guests find it a quaint setting with good chutney chicken salad ($7.95).

Opt for dessert at the TatoNut Donut Shop. All their batters are mixed with regular flour and potato flour, hence the name. Warm and made fresh daily, the Persian Cinnamon Bun makes the perfect companion to a glass of milk.

To experience the area's marshlands up close, try a kayak tour with PE'RO Guides. A half-day costs $40; (228) 818-9255 orwww.peroguides.com.

For dinner, head to Pleasant's Bar-b-que on Government Street. Order the pork sandwich with coleslaw, potato salad, or baked beans ($4.95). Slow-cooked meat and a great sauce make a meal here one pleasant experience.

Sunday-Setting Sail

Spice up your last day here with a Mexican breakfast at Chile Poblano. The huevos rancheros with Mexican rice ($5.95) are eggs-traordinary.

Afterward, it's all aboard for a Biloxi Schooner day sail. These white-winged queens grace the coastline with splendor. Walk-on sails cost $20 adults and $10 ages 3-12. You'll spy dolphins, get gorgeous views of the Gulf, and maybe even steer the boat. It's a great way to sample life on the sea without having to get your feet wet. FARRAH AUSTIN