taste of the south: Rmoulade Sauce

Southern Living, Mar 2005 by Florio, Donna, Earles, Johnny

Don't let the fancy name fool you-you can stir this sauce together in 10 minutes flat.

Southerners have adopted this French classic as their very own; you might even call it gussied-up tartar sauce. The two share some common ingredients-mayonnaise, sweet pickles, and Worcestershire sauce. But the original rémoulade (ray-muh-LAHD) sauce includes capers, anchovy paste, and often fresh herbs, just as it has been prepared in France for hundreds of years. Fortunately, making either version is simply a matter of stirring together easy-to-find ingredients.

Despite its European heritage, rémoulade is at home alongside rustic foods such as fried fish and salmon cakes, as well as more elegant dishes. It's a country club staple and a favorite in New Orleans, especially as a dressing for boiled shrimp. Louisiana cooks have developed their own versions over the years, such as a red rémoulade that doesn't include any mayonnaise as well as a vinegary white sauce.

At Criolla's Restaurant in Grayton Beach, Florida, chef and co-owner Johnny Earles has been a fan of the original rémoulade for years. "We use all sorts of variations of it," he says. "In warmer months, we lighten it up with a little citrus. The traditional base is just a great concoction. It's one of those sauces that's endured through the ages." Johnny serves it with crab cakes, among other things.

Associate Foods Editor Mary Allen Perry likes rémoulade for its versatility. "The great thing is, it's really inexpensive to fix and can enhance such a host of recipes," she says. "It really dresses up a can of tuna, you can use it on a po'boy or roast beef sandwich, and it's good with fried chicken fingers. It also goes nicely on salad greens."

DONNA FLORIO

CRIOLLA RÉMOULADE

MAKES 1 ½ CUPS

PREP: 10 MIN., CHILL: 1 HR.

This is the classic mayonnaise-based rémoulade, sparked with a touch of seafood seasoning.

1 cup mayonnaise

¼ cup Creole mustard

¼ cup chopped sweet pickles

2 tablespoons capers, drained

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons prepared horseradish

2 teaspoons anchovy paste

1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

1 teaspoon paprika

STIR together all ingredients; cover and chill at least 1 hour or up to 1 week.

CITRUS RÉMOULADE: Prepare Criolla Rémoulade as directed, omitting capers and parsley. Stir in 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro, ½ teaspoon grated lemon rind, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 1 teaspoon grated orange rind. Cover and chill as directed.

CHEF JOHNNY EARLES

CRIOLLA'S RESTAURANT

SANTA ROSA BEACH, FLORIDA

CREOLE RÉMOULADE SAUCE

MAKES 2 CUPS

PREP: 15 MIN., CHILL: 1 HR.

Deborah Blouin of the Junior League of Baton Rouge says this sauce's spiciness is due to its Creole heritage. "It's the oomph that gives the sauce a difference," she says with a laugh.

¼ cup lemon juice

¼ cup cider vinegar

¼ cup prepared mustard

¼ cup prepared horseradish

2 teaspoons paprika

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon black pepper

Dash ground red pepper

2 tablespoons ketchup (optional)

1 cup vegetable oil

½ cup finely chopped celery

½ cup finely chopped green onions

WHISK together first 8 ingredients, and, if desired, ketchup in a bowl; gradually whisk in oil until thickened. Stir in celery and onions. Cover and chill at least 1 hour or up to 1 week.

RIVER ROAD RECIPES

JUNIOR LEAGUE OF BATON ROUGE