Louisville Takes the Lead

Enjoy all the charms of this exciting city just before the big race.

You've probably heard about the Kentucky Derby in May and wish you could see Louisville when it's all decked out for the biggest horse race of the year. Well, you can see this Derby City in all its glory, yet miss the thundering herds of people. The Kentucky Derby Festival-now celebrating its 50th year-fills the weeks before the big race with tons of fun activities from April 15 to May 8.

Friday: Discovering Downtown

Check into the seelbach Hilton, (500 Fourth Avenue; [502] 585-3200). This grande dame offers the best in service and decor and features a terrific restaurant. Rates start at $189. For a less expensive choice but also near all the festival action, make the Gait House Hotel & Suites your headquarters (Fourth Street at the River; [502] 589-5200). It features 700 recently renovated rooms and offers rates starting at $125. (Call to confirm as rates go up on some days during the festival.) Many of the festival events are walkable from here.

Now it's time to experience the latest hot new thing in Louisville-4th Street Live. From the new Hard Rock Café to the Lucky Strike Bowling Alley to the Borders bookstore, you'll have plenty to do.

When you're ready for dinner, head out to Jicama Grill (1538 Bardstown Road; [502] 454-4383). Chef Anthony Lamas will have you speaking Spanish by the time you're done with your shrimp seviche appetizer, served with avocado and tomato ($10). Follow up with a famous Brazilian dish, Feijoada, which is a combination of black beans, sausage, and other smoked meats served over rice ($11). Don't eat dessert; save room for breakfast in the morning.

Saturday: Derby Festival Fun

Before you saddle up for all the horse-related fun, go to Lynn's Paradise Café (984 Barret Avenue; [502] 583-3447) for a breakfast you'll never forget. Order the Greek Scramble-freshly scrambled eggs, feta cheese, black olives, onions, tomatoes, and artichoke hearts ($8.99). Now it's time to do some walking, especially after that big breakfast.

Wander over to Waterfront Park for some of the Kentucky Derby Festival events. Many activities are free, but some require purchase of a Pegasus Pin ($3); they're available at shops and at the events.

Ready for lunch? Try out another fabulous local favorite-Bristol Bar & Grille (1321 Bardstown Road; [502] 456-1702). You'll love the hamburger served on an English muffin and improbably but deliciously topped with blue cheese ($6.50).

Now make the pilgrimage to Churchill Downs, the oldest and most famous racetrack in the country. Tour the newly renovated facilities, visit the fabulous Kentucky Derby Museum, and pick out something equestrian at the wonderful Finish Line Gift Shop (704 Central Avenue, Gate 1; [502] 637-7097). Fancy, frilly Kentucky Derby hats range from $175 to $300. Admission to the museum and Churchill Downs runs $9.

Enjoy excellent dining at another grand downtown hotel. The English Grill at the Brown hotel (Fourth and Broadway; [502] 583-1234) never disappoints. Sample the fillet of buffalo ($26.50). Accented with shallots, bacon, and a delectable sauce, the dish is tender, flavorful, and without a home-on-the-range taste.

Sunday: More Food and Frivolity

Be sure to make reservations for the Sunday Brunch at the Seelbach Hilton's Oakroom ([502] 807-3463). Beginning at 10 a.m., it offers more than 100 items and has complimentary Champagne from 1 to 2 p.m. ($24.95).

Now you're ready to play ball-or at least watch a game featuring the Louisville Bats at Slugger Field downtown (401 East Main Street; [502] 212-2287). The first game is April 7. For prices beginning at $5, you can't get more entertainment for less.

When hunger threatens to strike you out, just walk to a fine restaurant at the ballpark: Browning's ([502] 515-0174), a brew pub with a good grilled chicken sandwich ($6.95). In the ballpark itself, you can get a Slugger Dog, complete with bratwurst for $3.25. Peanuts and Cracker Jack are also available, of course.

Between the Derby Festival events, the ballpark, and the wonderful city itself, this visit promises a home run for sure.

WANDA MCKINNEY

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Apr 2005
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