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south's coastal treasures, the

Southern Living, Mid-Apr 2005 by Lingo, Karen

From busy seaport cities to relaxed resort towns, a bevy of saltwater beauties rim the face of the South. Tucked behind the dunes and alongside tidal marshes, they sparkle like gems in one of nature's finest settings. Here are some of our favorite places at water's edge.

the south's coastal treasures

Sometimes, the best pan about visiting the South's beautiful coast happens before you ever reach the beach. You can happily munch away on fresh seafood, glean must-have treasures from one-of-a-kind shops, take in a show or a concert, treat yourself to some spa time, or soak up the atmosphere of a cozy inn.

Possibilities pepper the rim of the South like freckles on a sun-kissed beauty. Here are some of the places we like best.

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maryland

Annapolis

Tales behind Maryland's capital are as colorful as the spinnakers that catch the wind out in the harbor. Listen for them at the Maryland State House, the oldest one in the country in continuous use for legislative purposes. Look for them also at the United States Naval Academy. Sign up for a tour at the Armel-Leftwich Visitor Center. Admission: $7.50 adults, $6.50 seniors, $5 students.

For gifts with a modern twist, shop at The League of Maryland Craftsmen, which features works by more than 150 artists.

For more information: (410) 280-0445 or www.visitannapolis.org.

Baltimore

Home of the Star Spangled Banner, Babe Ruth, and the Baltimore Orioles, this port city packs a lot of punch. The Inner Harbor alone, with museums, shops, and the National Aquarium in Baltimore, can take an entire day. But make time for Fell's Point.

Visit this vibrant neighborhood, and check out the array of seafood and other edibles in Broadway Market. For a taste of the local fare, drop by John Steven, Ltd., on Thames Street; (410) 327-5561. For more information: toll-free 1-877-225-8466 or www.baltimore.org.

Havre de Grace

Two great reasons to slip off I-95 just south of the Delaware state line are chocolates and decoys. Hand-dipped morsels bathed in rich chocolate put Bomboy's on my list of favorite candy stores the first time I walked in.

Decoys made Havre de Grace famous, though. Hunters once put them in the water to attract ducks. Now, they have reached art form status. Look for both old and new ones in shops around town. For more information: (410) 939-2100, 1-800-851-7756, or www.hdgtourism.com.

delaware

Wilmington

Trace Delaware Bay north to the mouth of the Christiana River, and you'll find Wilmington. At river's edge, its 1.2-mile Riverwalk curves past shops, museums, and some of the city's newest restaurants.

Harry's Seafood Grill justifiably draws crowds at dinner; (302) 777-1500. Start with the New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp and toasted focaccia with fresh smoked tomato salad ($11.95). After that, anything goes.

Check out the Shipyard Shops for outlet-priced treasures; remember, there's no sales tax in Delaware. For more information: (302) 652-4088 or www.visit wilmingtonde.com.

virginia

Virginia Beach

The 3-mile Boardwalk offers loads of fun, and the Virginia Aquarium and Marine Science Center inspires awe, but food makes a strong statement. Aldo's Ristorante has the best Italian fare around, especially Tuesday-Saturday nights when it's served with live music; (757) 491-1111.

At Five 01 City Grill, one of the most requested items is Screaming Fish Tacos-spicy grilled fish tucked in crisp blue tortillas with salsa, Monterey Jack cheese, and sour cream; (757) 425-7195. At One Fish Two Fish, ask for an outdoor waterfronttable, and order anything on the menu, as long as you finish with the crème brûlée; (757) 496-4350.

For more information: 1-800-822-3224 or www.vbfun.com.

north carolina

Wilmington

We like to settle downtown at the Front Street Inn; 1-800-336-8184. Rates: $138-$228. Next comes shopping-first at Chandler's Wharf and then at Old Wilmington City Market.

A tour of the Battleship North Carolina tops the list of must-see attractions for first-time visitors. Then venture out toward the Atlantic Ocean to find Fort Fisher State Historic Site and the North Carolina Aquarium at Fort Fisher.

For more information: (910) 341-4030, 1-800-222-4757, or www.cape-fear.nc.us.

south carolina

Beaufort

I could linger all day in Beaufort's Waterfront Park, watching the ever-changing beauty of the salt marshes and waiting for the kiss of an evening breeze. Instead, I change pace with a tour led by Peter Stevenson of The Spirit of Old Beaufort Walking Tour. Listening to Peter tell the town's story through song and poetry brings the past alive; (843) 525-0459 to schedule a tour.

My overnight choice is the 17-room Rhett House Inn; 1-888-480-9530 or www.rhetthouseinn.com. Rates: $195-$315, include afternoon tea and breakfast on the white-columned porch.

For more information: (843) 986-5400, 1-800-638-3525, or www.beau fortsc.org.

Charleston

As many times as I've visited, I can't get enough of Charleston. First-timers should definitely take one of the carriage tours for a great overview of the historic district.

A onetime trip to Fort Sumter should satisfy all but the most avid history buffs, but the South Carolina Aquarium always deserves another look. Visit the city May 27-June 12, and you can take in art, dance, music, and theater performances during the Spoleto Festival USA.

south's coastal treasures, the

Southern Living, Mid-Apr 2005 by Lingo, Karen

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