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A Quiet Getaway

Southern Living,  Jun 2005  by Austin, Farrah

Come to Subiaco, Arkansas, where cattle, monks, and self-guided strolls will relax and rejuvenate.

It's practically the gospel in these parts that Subiaco, a small village just 15 miles off I-40 in northwest Arkansas, shares its sacred treasure with those privileged enough to find it. Just ask the monks who operate the town monastery and boys' academy, one of the best hidden jewels in the state.

Walk of Faith

Founded by Benedictine monks in 1878, this stop entices guests to explore its manicured grounds and visit with its inhabitants. "I thought everyone had a monastery in their backyard," teases lifelong resident and monastery employee Donna Forst.

Donna's blessed backyard, a secret sanctuary, lies two hours from Little Rock. Here, God spreads his grace along the hillsides with the flowing pace of a Sunday service. Black Angus cattle graze the vast 640 acres of farmland that the abbey sits upon.

Large sandstone buildings anchor the campus. The smell of fresh-cut grass, blooming annuals, and hay intoxicates the senses this time of year. To drink it all up, indulge in a self-guided walking tour of the grounds. The abbey's East Park provides a small gazebo for reflection only a few feet away from the monastic cemetery.

If you want to splurge, stop at the facility's gift shop and bookstore in the Coury House. For kitchen gurus and cooks, Subiaco's famous Monk Sauce ($4) spices up everything from pork chops to broiled fish. Or sweeten your trip with the crunchy peanut brittle ($15 a container). They take phone orders, so call them at (479) 934-1001.

Meet the Monks

You can wander the monastery's inner court, where a statue of the church's namesake, Saint Benedict, stands in the midst of a cloister garden. Guests will spy monks and prep school students studying, praying, and working in the buildings that enclose the courtyard. If you're lucky, you'll encounter people such as Brother Mel Stinson, a former surgical technologist from Florida who has been with the monastic order for more than 22 years.

Next, stroll from the inner court through the Angel Walk, which leads to the abbey church. Along the path stands a 125-foot-tall tower with four bells that ring to call monks to public prayer each day. Visitors are welcome to attend Sunday Mass at 10:45 a.m. and vespers nightly at 7.

The hauntingly beautiful sound of Gregorian chants floats through the Romanesque-style church. Parishioners are engaged all the more by the 182 stained glass windows depicting Saint Benedict and members of the holy family. After one visit, many guests declare that they've sampled paradise, and it lies just beyond 1-40 among the green hills of Subiaco. FARRAH AUSTIN

Subiaco Abbey and Academy: 405 North Subiaco Avenue, Subiaco, AR 72865; (479) 934-1000 or www. subi.org.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Jun 2005
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