Barbecue Buddies

Here's a menu that's really smokin'. These guys know how to do it up right.

If that's not a beautiful sight, I don't know what is," crows Jim "Trim" Tabb as a gorgeous plume of hickory-fueled smoke leaves the chimney of his barbecue rig. It's just after breakfast, but Jim, an award-winning barbecue aficionado from Tryon, North Carolina, has already been at his smoker for more than six hours. His good friend, Garrett Oliver, author and brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery in New York, couldn't agree more. The two men have been hosting barbecue and beer pairings at the brewery for nearly five years.

Today the buddies are in Columbia, South Carolina, preparing for a family reunion at the home of Bill and Madelaine Miller, Garrett's uncle and aunt. Jim's supplying the pork, Garrett is pairing beer with the menu, and Madelaine is kind enough to share a few of her favorite recipes.

CREAMY CAROLINA COLESLAW

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

PREP: 10 MIN., CHILL: 1 HR.

You may substitute light mayonnaise and light sour cream for regular in this dish.

1 cup mayonnaise

1 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon dry mustard

½ teaspoon celery seeds

½ teaspoon pepper

¼ teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon hot sauce

2 (16-ounce) packages shredded coleslaw mix

STIR together first 10 ingredients in a large bowl. Add coleslaw mix, tossing well to coat. Cover and chill 1 hour. Serve with a slotted spoon. MADELAINE MILLER

COLUMBIA, SOUTH CAROLINA

BARBECUE DEVILED EGGS

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

PREP: 30 MIN., COOK: 6 MIN., STAND: 15 MIN.

If you want to omit the chopped pork, Madelaine suggests adding a drop of liquid smoke to provide a barbecue-like flavor.

12 large eggs

¼ cup mayonnaise

1/3 cup finely chopped smoked pork

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon pepper

1/8 teaspoon hot sauce

Garnish: paprika

PLACE eggs in a single layer in a large saucepan; add water to a depth of 3 inches. Bring to a boil; cover, remove from heat, and let stand 15 minutes.

DRAIN and fill pan with cold water and ice. Tap each egg firmly on the counter until cracks form all over the shell. Peel under cold running water.

BARBECUE LIKE A PRO

Follow Jim's tips for perfect 'cue.

* The most succulent pulled or chopped pork comes from the Boston butt (which is one half of a whole pork shoulder; the other half is the picnic shoulder). Bone-in is more economical, but even with the bone removed, this is still the best choice for smoking.

* Never allow flames to touch the meat-you're smoking, not grilling.

* Low and slow is the name of the game. Never increase the temperature of your grill or smoker to speed up cooking. The optimum smoker temperature is 225°. When the internal temperature of the meat reaches 190°, you're ready to go. If using a bone-in Boston butt, the shoulder bone should effortlessly pull away from the meat.

CUT eggs in half lengthwise, and carefully remove yolks. Mash yolks with mayonnaise. Stir in pork and next 4 ingredients; blend well.

SPOON yolk mixture evenly into egg white halves. Garnish, if desired. MADELAINE MILLER

COLUMBIA, SOUTH CAROLINA

TOMATO-AND-ONION SALAD

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

PREP: 10 MIN., STAND: 2 HRS.

The flavors of this recipe really shine with sweet Vidalia onions.

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 ½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon pepper

4 large tomatoes, thinly sliced

1 medium-size sweet onion, thinly sliced

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

WHISK together first 5 ingredients in a large bowl. Arrange tomato and onion slices in rows in a serving dish. Sprinkle with chopped basil, and drizzle evenly with marinade. Cover and let stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours. Serve with a slotted spoon. MADELAINE MILLER

COLUMBIA, SOUTH CAROLINA

BEER AND BARBECUE-PERFECT PARTNERS

Garrett guides you through the menu with a few of his favorite beers (all are available in large supermarkets). For more information on pairing beer with food, check out Garrett's award-winning book The Brewmaster's Table (HarperCollins, $16.95), or visit www.brooklynbrewery.com.

* Hoegaarden (Belgium) and Pilsner Urquell (Czech Republic): Both are light, snappy, and very refreshing warm-weather beers; ideal with Barbecue Deviled Eggs and Tomato-and-Onion Salad.

* Brooklyn Lager (New York): Subtle caramelized flavors with a hint of sweetness make this a nice all-around player for the entire menu. For a distributor in your area, visit www.brooklyn brewery.com.

* Abita Turbodog (Louisiana) and Brooklyn Brown Ale (New York): Their smoky flavors make these the ultimate beers to go with Tabb's Barbecue Pork (page 126). Anything that's been grilled or smoked will pair nicely with amber and brown beers.

* Anchor Porter (California): Hints of coffee and chocolate make this full-bodied beer just the right partner for Peach-Cinnamon Ice Cream.

PEACH-CINNAMON ICE CREAM

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

PREP: 20 MIN., COOK: 20 MIN., CHILL: 4 HRS., FREEZE: 25 MIN.

Peach nectar is a sweet, intensely flavored drink that's usually found on the international food aisle, with the fruit juices, or with cocktail mixes.