Two Perfect Towns

Southern Living, Aug 2005 by Cross, Kim

Monteagle and Sewanee invite you to linger high in the Tennessee hills.

Heed the call of the cool mountain air, and surrender to the charms of these enchanting towns. Monteagle is the kind of place where napping is a sport, shopping becomes a social event, and time lingers like childhood afternoons. Legend holds that Sewanee is a place so beautiful that it once was home only to angels. Filled with friendly faces and small-town gems, they'll make you feel right at home.

Mingle in Monteagle

As soon as you check in to the Adams Edgeworth Inn, you'll lose all sense of time. The 1896 Victorian calls you to rock on its porch, soak in its claw-foot tubs, and linger in its cozy library. One flip through the guest book reveals the effects of such serenity: "A spa for the spirit," one visitor wrote. "Leave room in the garden for angels to dance," said another.

The inn is your best ticket inside the Monteagle Sunday School Assembly, an idyllic church community of Victorian summer cottages where kids rule the neighborhood, adults sip mint juleps, and the architecture is a treat. Nonmembers are admitted with a four-hour pass during the summer season, but guests of the inn can join the community activities, from summer lectures to free movies in a breezy theater where people go barefoot and pets are welcome.

Across the street from the Assembly, on public land, the Monteagle Inn offers unusual gourmet breakfasts along with their lovely rooms. Ask about the broiled grapefruit, warm and dusted with sugar; the sweet potato fries, tossed with olive oil and herbs from the garden; or the breakfast quesadilla with a side of white corn simmered in coconut milk, cilantro, cumin, and lime.

Shopping is social hour at B. True, a frilly boutique full of date-night clothes and whimsical jewelry. Don't pass up nearby Mountain Outfitters, where, next to the camping gear, you'll find liberally discounted clothing from brands such as Abercrombie & Fitch and Banana Republic. On the way to Sewanee, stop by Mountain Works Gallery and Hallelujah Pottery for locally made art at reasonable prices. You'll also drive past Pearl's Foggy Mountain Café, a lovely spot for a romantic dinner later.

Explore Sewanee

Take time to visit Sewanee's crown jewel, The University of the South, where the austere Gothic buildings resemble those in Oxford, England. Visit the Memorial Cross, and stroll a section of the 20-mile trail around campus for breathtaking views of the valley. Ask for directions to the Natural Bridge, a stone arch in the forest not far from campus.

For a taste of university culture, visit Stirling's Coffee House, where professors occasionally hold class. Just off campus, pop into The Lemon Fair, a sunny little store full of locally and regionally made art and gifts. To eat like a local, have some fried zucchini and fried stuffed olives at Shenanigans, a former general store with a tiny art gallery hidden in back of the restaurant. Try an ale made by famous imports such as Blue Moon and Flying Dog Brewery. If the room feels off-kilter, don't blame the beer; the floor really is askew. That's part of the charm.

As you leave Sewanee, honor an old tradition. Touch the roof of your car to summon an angel to accompany you on your journey. Upon your return to the mountain, touch your ceiling once again to send your angel home. KIM CROSS

For more information: Contact the Monteagle Mountain Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 353, Monteagle,TN 37356; (931) 924-5353 or www.monteaglechamber.com.