Retreat to the Beach

Wild ponies couldn't keep visitors away from these Virginia islands. In fact, they're one of the biggest draws.

Cars still stream across the bridge that leads onto Chincoteague Island, even as day yields to night.

"You know why they come here, don't you?" asks Tommy Mason, a working waterman relaxing on the dock outside Waterside Motor Inn, the motel he and his wife built to accommodate the throngs of visitors who make the trek each year. "Because it's God's country," he answers.

A Coastal Treasure

Indeed, Chincoteague possesses a magical quality that's difficult to resist. This barrier island hugs the Atlantic coast near the line that divides Virginia and Maryland on the Delmarva Peninsula. In addition to a charming fishing village, it shelters a wealth of fertile marshes, thick forests, rare birds, and wild animals.

Sister island Assateague huddles nearby, providing the long strip of windswept beach favored by many visitors. Most of the island has been designated a national seashore.

"We just love this place," says Pennsylvania resident Shirley Fillgrove who vacations in Chincoteague with her family each year. "It's so quiet. We usually come for a week, sometimes two."

Around Town

The long, low bridge that crosses the Chincoteague Bay deposits visitors right onto Main Street in the tiny town of Chincoteague. One of the most intriguing shops sits just to the right as you cross the drawbridge. Decoys, Decoys, Decoys showcases an extraordinary collection of (you guessed it) decoys, a local folk art with an international following.

Mister Whippy, a soft-serve icecream shop on Maddox Boulevard, boasts a cultlike following. In addition to enjoying the cones and sundaes, visitors take home keepsakes including postcards and Mister Whippy dolls.

The original Mister Whippy building on Main Street now houses Sea Star Gourmet Carryout. Before migrating to the coast, owners Mercer and Brian Domino ran a bed-andbreakfast in the Shenandoah Valley. Now they offer gourmet sandwiches, fresh salads, and vegetarian fare.

Passionate About Ponies

Chincoteague and Assateague offer many recreational opportunities, but the wild ponies truly steal the show. Though they're most visible in the morning, you never know when you'll come face-to-face with a petite equine. (They're wild, so keep your distance.)

Still, there's something most people don't realize about these animals. "They're really small horses," explains former refuge manager John Schroer. "But we don't correct people. Wild ponies sounds so much more romantic to visitors." CASSANDRA M. VANHOOSER

Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce: 6733 Maddox Blvd., Chincoteague Island, VA 23336; (757) 336-6161 or www.chincoteague chamber.com.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Aug 2005
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