best in the west

UCHI

Tiny, inexpensive dishes fly, rapid-fire, out of chef Tyson Cole's kitchen and pack a big, Texas-size taste wallop. Try the hot Rock appetizer ($15). A sizzling, smooth river rock comes to you on a bed of sea salt. You take raw, incredibly tender Wagyu beef, sear it yourself on the rock to your favorite level of doneness, and wow-suddenly you have gorgeous mini-steaks. Or opt for some sashimi (slices of fresh raw fish), such as the Bluefin Super Two ($7). Atop warm rice, the artfully crafted pieces carry unexpected flavors: lemon, green onion, and ginger. From the attentive staff to the charming cottage-like atmosphere, Uchi delivers an unforgettable meal. 807 South LamarBlvd; (512) 916-4808. Entrées: $16-$30.

-MORGAN MURPHY

LOCAL FAVORITE: GÜERO'S TACO BAR

Austinites flock to this lovely restaurant under the shade of live oaks for the margaritas and savory Tacos al Pastor ($1.45 each). 7472 South Congress Street; (572) 447-7688. Entrées: $6.50-$12.

DRISKILL GRILL OR JEFFREY'S

Ask for a swank dinner spot in Austin, and most folks will suggest either the Driskill or Jeffrey's. Both have memorable dishes. Driskill's winner: crisp striped bass with hints of orange, vanilla, and bacon. Jeffrey's best: the oyster appetizer on yucca chips dribbled with honey aïoli. Fans of a more formal dining room will like the elegance of the Driskill. Those seeking an intimate restaurant should choose Jeffrey's. Driskill: 604 Brazos Street; (512) 474-5911. Three-course dinner: $65. Jeffrey's: 1204 WestLynn Street; (512) 477-5584. Entrées: $20-$40.

RANCH 616

Any article about this restaurant begs for some yeehaw Western idiom such as "Get along, little dogies, to Ranch 616." The place tries hard to give an authentic 195Os icehouse feel, and the campy result is popular with locals and big-haired politicians. Over the bar, you'll see what may be the only needlepoint nude in Texas. A portrait of Jesus smiles nearby. It's a fun, weird place. But on to the menu: If it can be shot in Texas, it's here. At lunch the quail comes fried or grilled ($10.50). Ranch 616 serves the biggest frog's legs (the other, other white meat) in town for $7.95. The mysterious house dipping sauce, a concoction of what seems to be turmeric and teriyaki, gives Kermit and friends a kick. Finish with the restaurant's banana shortbread cookie-a sea of caramelized bananas and Mexican cajeta (a thick syrup of caramelized sugar and milk) with a side of ice cream. 616 Nueces Sfreet; (512) 479-7616. Entrées: $13-$21.

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation Apr 2006
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved