Surprises in Louisville

NAPA RIVER GRILL

Wisteria, grapevines, candlelight, and a secluded patio come together at this romantic eatery on Dupont Circle. A gorgeous bar piled high with California wines plays to the Napa theme, though oenophiles can also order varietals from the Russian River Valley, Santa Maria Valley, and Monterey. Begin with a big Cab, and order the rissole. A creamy and flaky concoction of goat cheese and jumbo lump crabmeat-it's a dish for sharing. The salmon, oak grilled and coated with a slightly crunchy crust of balsamic vinegar and mustard, came atop couscous and crisp vegetables the night I visited. End with bread pudding, a late harvest wine, a pot of French press coffee, or, better yet, all three. 3938 Dupont Circle; (502) 893-0141. Dinner entrées: $ 12.95-537.95. -MORGAN MURPHY

It's not just the wine that brings people to Napa River Grill-the creamy bread pudding will make a sweet finish to any meal.

TOP-RATED: PROOF ON MAIN

Hotel food usually ranks just a notch above airline food, which is why hotel restaurants seldom appear on this page. But hotels in this city are the exception. The English Grill in the Brown Hotel and The Oakroom at the Seelbach Hilton are much praised, if slightly formal. Proof on Main, just a year old, has irreverently joined this legendary duo. Lodged in the wild 21c Museum Hotel, Proof's bizarre atmosphere (think Palm Beach posh meets warehouse industrial) nonetheless attracts a traditional crowd that looks remarkably like my grandmother and her friends. The rich flavors of Tuscany are coaxed into nontraditional dishes here by executive chef Michael Paley. The house-made country pâté is a good example, with tart capers, a perfectly poached egg, and a frisée salad doused with a mustardy vinaigrette. Like the arresting artwork, some dishes take on a weird but flavorful edge. Fregola, a tiny, pellet-like pasta gets paired here with fresh corn. The buttery result is half Old South, half Sardinia. Savor it with braised pork osso buco. Finish up with either the gelato or sorbet, both winners. 702 West Main Street; (502) 217-6360. Lunch entrees: $7-$15.

The hearty braised pork osso buco comes in a small black skillet at Proof on Main, one of Louisville's latest hotel restaurants.

LOCAL FAVORITE: SEVICHE, A LATIN RESTAURANT

We loved the Jicama Grill, and despite the name change, the menu here continues to bring inventive food to Louisville. Chef Anthony Lamas isn't afraid to mix it up with dishes such as the Hamachi Yellow Tail Tiradito, a ceviche where Peruvian spice flavors Japanese-style sashimi. Don't pass up the dessert "cigar" of apples and goat cheese rolled in a sweet pastry crust. Clever. 7538 Bardstown Road; (502)473-8560. Dinner entrées: $13-$29.

LUNCH: 4 THIRD AVENUE CAFÉ

Under new management, this small, funky cafe boasts excellent prices and vegan, vegetarian, and traditional selections. A vegan carrot cake impressed with excellent cream cheese icing and gigantic chunks of carrot. 1164 South Third Street; (502) 585-2233. Lunch entrées: $7-$9.

FOR MORE INFO

Louisville Editors' City Guide: editorscityguide.com

Copyright Southern Progress Corporation May 2007
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