Hitting a high note in Nashville

ASEE Prism, May/Jun 2003 by Fones, Mardy

You don't have to love the twang of steel guitars to enjoy this sophisticated southern city that has plenty to offer in the way of history, culture, and just plain fun. But if country music is your thing, you're going to be in heaven.

Say your old man was a no-account drifter named Sue who got run over by a train. You've just spent your last dime in a honky tonk and now your baby's gone off with your best friend. Well, good buddy, Nashville, the site of this year's annual conference, is your kind of place. In fact, it's a great city to visit, even if the achy-breaky lyrics of country entertainers like Vince Gill and Faith Hill don't exactly thrill you. Though best known for its billion-dollar music industry, Nashville is a cosmopolitan city with world-renowned art museums, great historic places like the Parthenon and the Hermitage, a wealth of colleges and universities, and wonderfully eclectic neighborhoods where you're likely to stumble upon funky shops and fine restaurants. And for Civil War buffs, the battleground of one of the war's bloodiest battles is a must-see in nearby Murfreesboro.

Downtown Nashville is a lush city where large trees and pocket parks dot the busy landscape that coasts gently to the banks of the Cumberland River. Here, modern buildings such as BellSouth's so-called "Batman" building (nicknamed for its spotlighted, twin spiral towers) rub shoulders with historic structures. Restored rnid-19th century, block-deep Victorian warehouses on Second Avenue overlook the river and now house restaurants, art galleries, offices, and downtown shops.

The 1990s saw the city's acquisition of professional football the Tennessee Titans - and hockey - the Predators - and the construction of their arenas, bringing with them a re-energized growth and interest in the city's historic downtown. And most downtown historic sites are visitor accessible either by foot or via the trolleys that circulate throughout the business district during the day and early evening.

TAKE A WALK WITH THE STARS

Remember singer Eddie Arnold? Best known for his classic hit, "Make the World Go Away," this yodcling great, now 84, just donated his papers, recordings, and even his Liberace-esque costumes to the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. For those who want to the inside scoop on country stars like Loretta Lynn, Willie Nelson, or Dolly Parton, this place is a gold mine. The museum includes interactive exhibits that retell the story of country music's birth and the people and songs that made it famous. It also houses the largest research center in the world dedicated to a single form of American music. A charming cafe makes an ideal spot for a sandwich and coffee.

To complete your country music experience, just walk two blocks to the Ryman Auditorium. Revered as the "Mother Church of Country Music," this red-brick former house of worship was the Grand Ole Opry's home from 1943-1974. The building's excellent acoustics and intimate seating continue to make it a popular venue.

Today, the Ryman is equal parts museum and performance site. Check out the exhibit cases at the back of the hall containing programs and memorabilia from the Ryman's heyday. Then have your picture taken on the Ryman's historic stage. Don't miss its wonderfully cluttered gift shop. The shop features everything from re-recordings by greats like Patsy Cline and Porter Waggoner to buttons, postcards, and even guitar-shaped nail clippers.

Broadway and Second Avenue are good starting points for visitors. In the market for an excellent guitar? Visit Gruhn Guitar at Broadway and Fourth Avenue. Gruhn is the vendor of choice for musicians across the spectrum for excellent stringed instruments. You never know whom you might see test-driving a guitar there. On the performance side, a favorite of country music aficionados is Tootsie's Orchid Lounge. It's another Broadway country music landmark and one you're not likely to miss. This brightly painted bar (in orchid, of course) was a second home in their salad days for country music legends such as Kris Kristofferson, Faron Young, and Willie Nelson. Be sure to stop in and check out the memorabilia-lined walls dubbed "Tootsie's Wall of Fame."

Hatch Show Print, also on Broadway, is one of America's oldest surviving show-poster printers, and it opens its doors to visitors who want an intimate view of printing's historical past. Founded in 1870, this still-working letterpress shop is credited with transforming simple posters info an art form. In addition to viewing old posters and watching as type for new posters is hand-set and printed using 19th-century technology, visitors can buy reproduction posters of their favorite stars.

Just off Broadway between First Avenue and the river is Fort Nashborough. A replica of the original settlement of Nashville, its self-guided tour can give you a sense of the life of the pioneers who established the city in the late 1700s. Once you've had your taste of Nashville's early roots, take a ride on the Tennessee Fox Trot Carousel. Also located on the riverfront, this beauty is a fully functioning carousel/tribute by artist and Nashville native Red Grooms. Open daily during good weather, kids and grown-ups alike can climb aboard its 37 riding figures and make their choice of mounts from the state's history, from Andrew Jackson to country music great Kitty Wells.