historic gem of the upper midwest: Stillwater, Minnesota, The

Northwestern Financial Review, Sep 9, 2000 by Crews, Jennifer

ake a journey back in time when you visit historic Stillwater, Minnesota, nestled in the beautiful hills and limestone bluffs of the St. Croix River Valley. Located 20 miles northeast of downtown St. Paul, Stillwater is known best for its quaint shops, antique dealers and fine restaurants. Bordered on the east by the St. Croix River, one of America's protected Wild and Scenic Waterways, Stillwater is home to 16,000 residents. Each year, this 19th century Midwestern river town welcomes thousands of visitors. When you visit, you will find there is never a lack of things to see and do.

Begin your journey when you round the bend in Highway 36 and drive into the old-fashioned downtown district. Stillwater, once a thriving lumber town, is so picturesque that it has been used as a backdrop for several movies, including Beautiful Girls and Grumpier Old Men. A charming ten-block main street bustles with people, young and old, shopping and sightseeing among these historic buildings. On Main Street, you will see remnants of Stillwater's vibrant past all around. When you shop in these stores, you are browsing in buildings that may once have been a boarding house, railroad building, saloon, brewery or even a theater.

Antiqueing is a well-loved tradition in Stillwater as there are more than 15 antique shops to explore. Stop in to Mid-Town Antiques and take a peak at the hundreds of items for sale. This antique mecca is a co-op of more than 80 dealers that houses an impressive variety of curios - everything from Victorian ladies' wear to advertising collectibles and an authentic old-fashioned gas pump.

Venture further down Main Street to Mill Antiques, which is housed in the 100-year-old sawmill on the.north end of Main Street. Along the way, stop into Stillwater Antiques, located in a recycled bank building on the corner of Main and Myrtle Streets. These old buildings add to the charm and allure of an afternoon of antique shopping.

The quaint family-owned shops, and handmade craft and furniture stores that line Main Street will draw you in. Uncover treasures in unique stores such as Season's Tique, which specializes in handcrafted Christmas ornaments and knick-knacks. Or browse through Kmitsch Girls, which offers one of the best selections of dolls and toys from around the world, as well as unusual imports like Tibetan singing bowls. These stores are typical of the downtown Stillwater shopping scene.

Take a break from shopping and satisfy that sweet tooth with a bit of handmade fudge or a delicious almond turtle at Barbara Ann's Fudge Shoppe. Or nibble on a chocolate mint fudge ball while you watch a candy maker handpull peanut brittle at Olde Tyme Candies. Or have a seat on one of many benches that line Main Street and simply people watch.

Make some time for browsing through the stacks of books in one of the numerous bookstores. Stillwater is a bibliophile's paradise. There are over 40,000 books for sale here. Duck into a cozy book shop like the St. Croix Antiquarian Bookseller and rummage through books piled floor to ceiling. There is no shortage of reading here.

When you feel that first rumbling in your stomach, head over to the Dock Cafe for lunch, where you can enjoy salads, sandwiches or pasta and a scenic view from the deck overlooking the river. Or if you prefer a more eclectic menu, try Savories, a casual yet sophisticated bistro that offers adventurous dishes with names like "Trout in the Weeds." If you are in the mood for Italian cuisine, don't miss Vittorio's, located in the old Joseph Wolf Brewery building.

After lunch, head into the hills that are too steep to tackle on foot. The best way to go is on an educational, yet entertaining trolley tour. The folks at Stillwater Trolley Narrated Tours bring Stillwater's past alive with colorful narration and animated storytelling. While the 45-minute tour takes you to all four corners of Stillwater, your tour guide will give you a fascinating history lesson sprinkled with local gossip, puns and humor. Beware if you are an Iowan though: you are in for a little extra ribbing.

While you settleo soak up the spectacular turn-of-the-century architectwe, you Will lear, Oie 40 Stillwater, sometimes referred to as "The Birthplace of Minnesota was founded on October 26, 1843. As the trolley wends its way up steep hills, you learn that the lumber industry thrived in the St. Croix River Valley throughout the I 800s, attracting wealthy lumber barons, bankers, riverboat men and mill workers, whose family houses you are admiring now.

The homes in Stillwater certainly reflect the prosperous era of the lumber industry. Here, high atop the limestone bluffs, you will see architectural styles ranging from Greek Revival and Neoclassicism to Prairie and Stick Style Houses. Many of these sprawling homes have been converted into bed and breakfast inns. From the top of the hill, you will stop for a spectacular view of the St. Croix River and the Stillwater lift bridge, one of only two lift bridges remaining in Minnesota.