Patchen Explorer TSC-2

Model Airplane News, Oct 2000 by Aberle, Bob

Final motor-pod assembly involves adding 1/16-inch balsa planking and the addition of the front and rear 3/8-inch-thick blocks. Note that you must make cooling holes in both the front and rear blocks to allow air in and out. To allow future access to the motor and speed control, the front block is held in place by screws.

When the motor pod/pylon has been completed, cover the wing with white Super MonoKote*. Add the ailerons, and use the covering material as hinges. Install the aileron servos and control-linkage hardware. Last, place the pylon in its slot, position the thrust line using the plans as a guide, and cement the pylon into place.

The fuselage is just a big balsa box. The sides are 1/16-inch balsa, which is more than strong enough. After you've assembled the fuselage, turn your attention for a few moments to constructing the vertical fin and the horizontal stabilizer. Note that a length of Sullivan* Gold N' Cable (no. 507) is run up the LE of the vertical fin and then out the top toward the elevator. The brass cable that runs inside the plastic tube connects the elevator servo (mounted inside the forward fuselage) to the elevator control horn. You could, if you wish, mount the elevator servo at the rear of the fuselage using a long cable extension and then connect a wire dir-ectly up to the T-tail-mounted elevator. It's your choice!

The fuselage nose is made of a block of blue foam. This easyto-shape material has a relatively smooth surface (after sanding) and is light but can be difficult to paint or finish. It is strong enough to accept the nose-gear assembly mount (made from plywood and spruce pieces) without your worrying about the nose wheel ripping out on every landing. I removed a portion of the foam to accept the nose-gear assembly. Then I poured in a generous amount of 5-minute epoxy and set the assembly in place. The main landing gear is made of two separate. 3/32inch wire struts in a trunion block arrangement.

Cover the vertical fin, stab/elevator (and hinges) again with white Super MonoKote. The shaped-foam nose block needs some special attention. I used Sears latex glossy white paint because it doesn't melt foam. Then I marked off the simulated windows and painted them with black acrylic water-based paint purchased at a local crafts store. Use some 1/8-inch black trim tape to outline the windows and eliminate any roughness caused by the masking tape. The final touch is to use ch inch automotive red trim tape. One nice thing about electrics is that you never have to worry about fuelproofing the trim tape.

RADIO AND POWER SYSTEM

I used an FMA Direct* Tetra RX operated by a trusty old Futaba* Super Seven TX. The elevator and aileron servos are miniature FMA S-80s. The ESC is a Lofty Pursuits* LPSC-Mini that can handle 6 to 8 cells at up to 15 amps. It is no longer available, so as alternatives, I suggest ESCs made by FMA Direct, Castle Creations*, or Modelair-Tech.

Whichever ESC you choose, it is essential that it have a BEC to save the extra weight of a receiver/servo battery pack.